1996 Winzergenossenschaft Nordheim Volkacher Kirchberg Kerner Halbtrocken Q.b.A. –Franken, Germany 10,5% alc.
The color is youthfully opaque, not golden in the least, but throwing an almost green cast. Very little Weinstein has precipitated out. The nose bears no resemblance to the intensely floral, almost Moscato-like aroma of youthful Kerner, but seems more like mature Pinot Gris or Riesling. The signature melony grapiness of Kerner has also retreated into a waxy citronella and burnt candle-wick, cactus paddles and honey. It sure is interesting, and surprisingly intact for a very modest almost fifteen-year-old Co-op produced Kerner from a rather average Franconian vintage (WTFK?), but the very highest and most delicious expression of Kerner is quite surely the fresh grapes eaten straight off the vine.
(Volkacher Kirchberg is a Großlage.)
Cheers,
Bill