Had a glass of Beaujolais lately? If not, you're missing out on some seriously good wine.
No, we're not talking about the eponymous plonk, the 'simple' Beaujolais AOC that comes from the south of the region and is produced quickly in huge quantities and usually best consumed while distracted by other things. Not the Beaujolais-Villages either, that collection of producers from selected villages that produces a better grade of Beaujolais.
Neither are we talking about the faded but still present phenomenon of "Nouveau Beaujolais"---even more quickly made to be the precursor of the wine of the vintage---that curious and often banana reeking (from the yeasts used) beverage as closely akin to Kool-Aid as to wine.
Nope. We're talking about a serious and determined group of passionate small-holders, predominantly in the northern part of the region where the Beaujolais Crus are located, each in a specific village or commune, and each with its own distinct character. We're talking Beaujolais Cru. Even more precisely, we're talking Morgon.
A case in point:
Domaine Louis & Claude Desvignes is a small estate winery in Morgon, one of the finest of the Crus and often lauded for both its longevity and its resemblance to fine Burgundian Pinot Noir.
Morgon has a history of that; there's even a local verb in the lexicon, 'morgonner,' To morgonner is to slowly become with age more like Pinot Noir than Gamay, gaining depth and complexity and expression not normally associated with the more humble versions of Beaujolais.
Those wine lovers and geeks who are clued in, the One Percenters who spend their time and money seeking out the small points of perfection, have flocked to Morgon, and to Domaine Desvignes in particular---and for very good reason, as exampled by their new trifecta of 2009, three distinct Morgons that are nothing short of astonishing.
At a recent trade tasting, Louis-Benoit (the current Louis of Louis & Claude), a young, smiling, and engaging representation of the new generation of winemakers who are refashioning the wine business in France, and the eighth generation at Desvignes, showed off all three to great acclaim.
Morgon La Voûte Saint-Vincent 2009
The ‘Vault of Saint Vincent,’ patron saint of wine, is a climat of 60 year old vines that does proper homage to its namesake. The 2009 is robed in vestments of dark purple and ruby which promises vigor and depth, then delivers in the nose and mouth. This is succulent, fresh, fruit-drenched wine---envision a heaping platter of firm-fleshed black cherries at the perfect point of ripeness---with light, soft, tender tannins that is perfectly drinkable right now. And why wouldn’t you?
Morgon Côte-du-Py 2009
The Montagne du Py is the quality zone of Morgon---if there were a Premier Cru rank in Morgon, it would be here---and this 2009 is a perfect example. From this vineyard on the Côte-du-Py--the slope of the mountain fairly close to the top---the fruit is still succulent and enticing, but now there is markedly more structure, solid bones under the fleshiness, tannins with a bit of grip, and more complexity. Cherry, yes, but black raspberry too, and a smack of sour cherry tartness. This is still evocative Gamay, but with age it could very well be a morgonner, with more dark fruit than red, and more mushroomy earthiness and fullness on the palate.
Morgon Côte-du-Py Javernières 2009
If the mountain gives us Côte-du-Py as the potential Premier Cru, then at the perfect place on the mountain---in this case, lower down the slopes and facing south—is the candidate for Grand Cru, Javernières. This wine is darker, more dense, more intense, almost brooding, even in its facile youth. The fruit is amazingly complex in its early stages and promises to be much more so with age. It comes at you in layers; there’s the sweet-tart black cherry, then more tart and tangy pomegranate, and dark, fleshy purple plum; but that merges with an almost herbal cassis, a not at all displeasing whiff of evergreen, and fresh-plowed earth. (Notice the more Burgundian/Pinot Noir descriptions here? But it is still clearly Gamay.)
There’s wood, but thankfully little and restrained and used to give structure rather than add flavor (wish California and other places could figure that out), so the Javernières stays firmly in the European camp, with acidity, structure, tannic grip and an earthy base. But all these descriptors won’t really matter once you taste the wine, for it is simply and basically stunning, and once you taste it you’ll want to have some on hand to recreate the experience as often as possible.
This trio of Morgon from Desvignes is an impressive assortment of Gamay and a perfect example of what this Cru, and this Domaine, and this winemaker, are capable of. Get all three...if you can find any. It's the new age of Beaujolais.
(From Examiner.com)
. Although if I buy enough, we do have friends in Sault Michigan who will receive shipments for us at their home. That is my plan for the Willamette wine (pinot and riesling, hopefully) I plan on buying next month when I am in your neck of the woods.