by Salil » Mon Apr 11, 2011 1:03 pm
1983 Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt Scharzhofberger Riesling Spätlese
Cork soaked all the way through. Comes across a little light and thin initially, but fills out with air as the fruit freshens up and it picks up complexity; lovely herbal and fresh spearminty notes over fresh pear fruit and lemon candy. Very understated and elegant, drinking at peak now.
2001 Joh. Jos. Christoffel Erben Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Kabinett
Still youthful but very enjoyable, showing fresh lime and strawberry fruit seasoned with slate and florality on a lean, elegant frame. There's really bright, refreshing acidity that keeps it very precise, refreshing and just barely sweet.
1998 Wwe. Dr. H. Thanisch (Erben-Thanisch) Bernkasteler Doctor Riesling Spätlese
In a great spot right now. Beautiful aromatics combining fresh Riesling fruit, herbs, smoke and more savoury earthy elements; all about clarity and precision with wonderful acidity, restrained sweetness and a sense of real refreshment.
2009 Van Volxem Scharzhofberger Riesling
Starts out very creamy and dense, layered with rich white fruited flavours and faint herbal notes. With time it starts to feel more focused and precise, nicely balanced though not particularly exciting and disappointing compared to the last bottle I had.
2009 Van Volxem Riesling Volz
My favourite of the '09 Van Volxems so far. Not as ripe and opulent as any of the other bottlings; the fruit's much more streamlined here and there's a vivid stony minerality and fresh herbal elements accenting the fruit. There's barely any sense of sweetness here, plenty of acidity and great precision and length. Fantastic.
2008 A.J. Adam Dhroner Hofberger Riesling Auslese
Really wild and exotic to the point that I wondered if there was some Scheurebe in here; a powerhouse of mango, passionfruit and grapefruit accented with floral, honeyed and mineral notes. The power and sweetness here are almost Beerenauslese-like, but there's tremendous acidity that keeps it remarkably light, precise and refreshing. Stunning!