A week in CA and a few wines tasted; here are some impressions:
1998 G. Conterno, Barolo:
A beautiful wine with layer after layer of scent and flavor; still quite young but not too tannic to drink. Years to go and a fine future ahead.
2002 Peter Michael, Les Pavots:
A Bordeaux blend that was completely open, well-balanced with clear, moderately complex fruit and a good finish. At or near peak and very nice with steak.
1995 Pride, Claret:
Also a Bordeaux blend; much too sweet and oaky to be enjoyable (for me); this is not my style.
2010 Bevan Cellars, Sauvignon Blanc Monica’s Cuvée:
Another exceptional effort from this producer, perhaps even better than the 2009 and alcohol of less than 13%. No grass or cat pee but rather lovely citrus and papaya/mango flavors with excellent cut.
2010 Argot, Rosé (375 ml):
Some RS and considerable acidity, good fruit and a nice color. I like it best at or near room temp. and the idea of rosé in 275 I find rather appealing.
2009 Porter-Bass, Pinot Noir:
Very nice wine and certainly more in the Pommard style than the Dijon style. Rich and vibrant.
Three just bottled wines:
2009 Ceritas, Pinot Noir Escarpa Vineyard:
Under 14% alcohol; about as impressive a new pinot as I have tasted. A Sonoma Coast vineyard that really shows the maritime influence and is sort of wild and feral while at the same time being well-balanced and deep. This will take a decade to be ready but everything is there to make it a potential Grand Cru. John Raytek, former assistant at Copain, is owner and winemaker. Really impressive, albeit pricey at $55/bottle.
2009 Ceritas, Chardonnay Ritchie Vnyd.:
Another under 14% wine, this is quite acidic, sulpherous and closed at the moment; More like a Chablis then a CA chard. Judgment reserved.
2009 Ceritas, Chardonnay Porter-Bass:
Under 14% and shows the signature of the vineyard even while being somewhat closed and sulpherous. I suspect this will be ready sooner but will still last longer then most CA chards.
A few others:
2005 Pepière, Granite de Clisson:
Magnificent – no other way to put it. Crystalline but deep, bright but full, complex but complete; a great wine that may last decades but tastes wonderful now.
2006 Overnoy/Houillon, Arbois-Pupillin:
Utterly charming; most any other wine on the table is just not as interesting and so, despite its pale color, all else pales. Poulsard at its most complex and ethereal.
1995 Edmunds St. John, Syrah Durrell Vineyard:
When first opened, quite thin and dominated with spearmint/menthol aromas; in the decanter over several hours the texture broadened and thickened, and the aromas included smoked bacon, meat, dark fruit and earth. The menthol aspect never went away and, frankly, I did not like it, but the wine is still sound and good. I have other bottles so I will see if this is a single bottle phenomenon or a general characteristic of the wine in the coming weeks.
I tasted a number of other cabs. and pinots from CA and some other wines that I’ve just forgotten.
Keep an eye on Ceritas; these are really different from the mainstream and show a lot of potential.
Best, Jim