The twice annual tastings of TGVins/Le Vin Passion are always a must with the attendance of high quality artisan wine-growers from all over France, except Bordeaux. The wines on show, nearly all very good, are kept to a reasonable number which allows me to taste them all.
Domaine de la Coutade, Île de Porquerolles, Provence (CdP = Côtes de Provence) http://www.lacourtade.com/en/
The wines here showed a remarkable freshness and, in the past, I have sometimes found an iodine streak in the reds which I did not notice this time. Owner, Richard Auther, attributes this to the cooling influence of the sea and to a soil of acid schist.
The whites made from Rolle (=Vermentino) show minerality and crisp acidity surprising from so far south. CdP L’Alyycastre blanc 2009 (€9) showed fresh thirst quenching apple notes with a squirt of lemon; 15/20. CdP La Courtade blanc 2007 (€19) was a lot richer and more complex and generous with meat and marmalade hints with the same fresh acidity, being more covered by the substance than with previous, giving great balance; 16.5/20++.
CdP L’Alycastre rosé 2010 (€9), from Grenache, Mourvèdre and Tibouren, is worth remembering when the warm days come for its strong minerality, juicy acidity and backbone; 15.5/20. CdP L’Alycastre rouge 2009 (€9), from Mourvèdre 70%, Grenache and Syrah, was a generous wine with tangy dark fruit, leather and tar touches and good structure; 16/20 QPR!
Domaine Frédéric Mabileau, Saint-Nicolas de Bourgueil (SNB) http://www.fredericmabileau.com/frederi ... eau-us.htm
The grapes going into this estate’s wines are certified organic. Both the people (Frédéric and his wife Nathalie) and the wines are very likeable and the latter represent decent QPR.
Anjou Chenin des Rouillères 2010 (€10) is made from 5 year old vines planted on gravelly sand over white clay; it was a surprisingly rich, aromatic and generous wine with fresh fruit flavours (apple and quince) and smooth acidity (less than from Courtade!!); 15.5/20++. SNB Les Rouillères rouge 2009 (€10) was fruity, supple and round with meat touches, minerality and nice grip; 15.5/20++. Bourgueil Les Racines (R) 2009 (€12), from gravelly clay and raised for 11 months in used 600 litre barrels, was a more substantial wine with richer fruit, more structure and velvety texture enhanced by a nice dash of leather; 16.5/20 QPR!
I noticed that Nathalie’s face clouded over when I mentioned leather. Anti-brett brainwashing seems to be affecting young French vignerons; “even if you like it, it’s a fault which we don’t want” (or words to that effect). What a shame if these non-dominant traces disappear from new generation Loire CabFranc!
Domaine Arlaud, Morey-Saint-Denis http://www.domainearlaud.com/site_uk/index_uk.htm
Elegant wines here which were already approachable helped no doubt by the character of the vintage. But why do I have to pay so much nowadays for a simple fix of village Burgundy?
Bourgogne Roncevie rouge 2009 (€15) had a nice strawberry nose but the palate was somewhat bland; 14.5/20+. Chambolle-Musigny 2009 (€32) was aromatically quite closed right now but greater finesse and generosity were apparent; 15.5/20++ when it opens up. Morey-Saint-Denis 2009 (€32) was already more open, fruity and structured; 16/20 potentially. Morey-Saint-Denis 1er cru Les Millandes 2009 (€43) was a clear notch up in elegance and richness; 16.5/20 potentially.
Arlaud’s range includes the grands crus Clos Saint-Denis and Charmes-Chambertin but neither were on show.
Domaine Pierre Gaillard, N. Rhône http://www.domainespierregaillard.com/GB/indexGB.htm
See TNs in March's Wine Focus.
Domaine Le Roc des Anges, Roussillon, Marjorie Gallet (CDRV here = Côtes du Roussillon Village and VdPP = Vin de Pays des Pyrénéés-Orientales) http://www.rocdesanges.com/en/origine.html
This is another good estate with vibrant wines. The reds benefit particularly from the presence of some fine old Carignan vines.
The whites showed great freshness and minerality for the southern latitude those not as acidic as those from Courtade. VdPP VV blanc 2009 (€16), from Grenace gris and Macabeu, was mineral, fleshy and quite generous - 15.5/20 - and VdPP Iglésia Vella blanc 2008 (€29), from old vine Grenache gris, fermented and raised in used 500 litre barrels, managed the feat of being both more richly generous and more freshly mineral than the previous; 16.5/20.
The reds are made in varying proportions from Carignan, Grenache and Syrah. Tank aged CDR Effet Papillon 2009 (€7) was pleasant and soft but a bit bland compared to the others; 14.5/20. CDRV Segna de Cor 2009 (€12), 50% Grenache, was beautifully spicy and a much finer proposition (see more detailed TN posted on Sunday); 16.5/20 QPR! CDRV Vieilles Vignes (now Relief) 2008 (€17), 50% Carignan and 30% Grenache old vines, showed tangy and peppery red fruit and velvety texture – 16.5/20 – and the 2009 (€19) was a touch longer and more structured; 16.5/20++. Finally VdPP 1903 Carignan 2007 (€29), from vines planted in 1903, was grandiose and much more expressive than 18 months ago showing complexity with hints of liquorice, tar and wet leather in the generous dense fruit, full body and firm structure; very fine 17.5/20+.
Domaine les Terres de Fagaya, Maury, Stéphane Gallet (Marjorie’s husband)
The Maury (“M”) appellation covers Vins Doux Naturels (VDN = sweet fortified wines); the reds are from Grenache. I thought that the Gallets’ range had a lot of personality. They promise to shake my allegiance away from Mas Amiel.
M blanc 2008 (€28), from Macabeu, Grenache gris and Grenache blanc, was delicious with original candied citrus aromas flecked with rubbery leather and a surprisingly fresh minerality which balance the sugar beautifully; 16.5/20++.
The three reds enabled one to taste the effect of different soil types. M Anthocyane 2009 (€11 for 50cl), from schist was concentrated and rich – 15/20++ - but seemed simplistic after tasting M Fagayra 2009 (€26), from chalk and schist, which showed much more finesse aromatically as well as firmer structure and greater length; 16.5/20 already. Finally M Op. Nord 2009 (€37), from marl and schist, was more closed though tar, liquorice and leather came up with swirling, but the substance was notably rounder and deeper; potentially very fine 17/20.
Château de Hauteville, Éric Bordelet, southern Normandy http://www.ericbordelet.com/
This is a producer of cider and perry but his products are acquiring an almost cult status amongst French and Belgian wine geeks and they are available in many fine restaurants.
Poiré Authentique 2009 (€9) was delicious with excellent roundness, freshness and acidity; 15.5/20
Poiré Granit 2009 (€15) – no notes
Sydre Argelette 2008 (€11) was fruity, fresh and complex with just a tad too much RS (10g) and sophistication for my ideal; 15.5/20
Calvados 1994, 52% alcohol (a négoce product and not yet for sale in Belgium; he started his own Calvados production in 1997); powerful, concentrated, structured and virile; at this stage I prefer the more elegant offerings of Roger Groult but in a few years…..?