concentrated monster of extraordinary fruit and tannin quality was one of the most moving experiences I've ever had with wine. Since then I've been chasing and enjoying great bottles from Martha's Vineyard whenever possible.
The most extraordinary characteristics I find in these wines is this their ethereal freshness, intense minerality, intriguing tobacco note (reminiscent of
the aromatical air in the Viñales valley in Cuba after rainfall), truffle-like florality and powerful sweet fruit (reminiscent of great port).
Heitz Martha's Vineyard Cabernet Vertical Tasting in St.Gallen - What a happy day!
What a privilege to taste 18 vintages of this legendary Cru from Napa Valley - all from perfectly stored bottles.
This was made possible thanks to the generosity of both Kathleen Heitz Myers - president of Heitz Cellars - and the Swiss importer Martel.
Flight 1: 1979, 1980, 1981, 1983, 1984, 1986 and 1987.
1979: I was positively shocked about how well this was showing from a perfectly stored bottle (much better than any other bottle I had of this vintage
before). A classic, old-style Martha's with all the virtues you can expect from this terroir in a good vintage, offering tremendous pleasure. In my view a
special government warning should be applied on the label saying that this is addictive, drug-like stuff
1986: A sleeping giant. Again showing better than all the bottles I had of this before. Could it be that I have actually no idea of how great perfectly
stored Martha's really tastes (e.g. from Magnums)? By the way, this perfect bottle should have been decanted one day before.
I liked the other vintages of this flight as well although they were overshadowed by 1979 and 1986.
Flight 2: 1991, 1992, 1996, 1997 and 1999.
1991: What an intriguing mint-like freshness in the nose and on the palate. I keep on repeating my earlier statement that I've never seen this in better
shape before. This bottle would have benefited from extended airing as well.
1996 and 1997 were showing youthful fruit, nice depth and complexity. 1992 and 1999 were the lighter wines in the context of this flight.
Martha's from 1996 onwards are made from replanted vines.
Flight 3: 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005 and 2006.
These are all delicious wines showing pure, rich fruit, subtle tannins and decent notes of new oak. All of them benefited a lot from airing. Their future looks bright.
Cordial thanks to Kathleen Heitz Myers and her family as well as to Jan Martel & team for this memorable event!
Cheers,
Rainer
) was one of the most memorable wines I have had.