WTN: Extreme Riesling

2008 Villa Pistoria Riesling Unfiltriert Deutscher Tafelwein Rhein –Bad Bergzabern, Südpfalz, Germany 12%

Villa Pistoria is an historic 1 hectare estate in Bad Bergzabern in the Südliche Weinstraße that commands an almost a cult-like following for a precious few disciples. Labeled merely Deutscher Tafelwein Rhein in Italian IGT form, this is made with Luddite inspired tech from the 19th century.

The wine is intensely expressive in its dried apricot and orange citrus fruit, and it leaves no doubt of ripeness in the spätlese realm. There is a floral aroma of the sharpest sort, and the petally, polleny cherry blossom sensation rides a jagged shard of steely mineral deep into the palate. I have no figures, but I would venture to say that there is in excess of 10 or 11 g/l of TA and this in a vintage of less than voluptuous Oechsle. It is an acid-freak paradise of traditional winemaking. PUNISHING. But hurts so good.

Cheers,
Bill

Sounds fascinating, Bill. Is this widely available in Germany, in so far as that is possible from 1 hectare? Cologne is not too far from here .

Sounds fascinating, Bill. Is this widely available in Germany, in so far as that is possible from 1 hectare? Cologne is not too far from here .

Hi Tim,

I'm afraid not. I think that the only shop where it is available is this one in Landau:

http://www.weinhandlung-am-kleinen-platz.de/

Cheers,
Bill

Isn't that guy Stefan Dorst? He comes here regularly to present wines from Spanish and South African estates where he is consultant oenologist.

Isn't that guy Stefan Dorst? He comes here regularly to present wines from Spanish and South African estates where he is consultant oenologist.

Bingo!

Hi Bill -

Thank you for the note. This sounds exactly like my kind of wine!

At any rate, why does Villa Pistoria have to call this a Tafelwein? When I think of Italian Vino di Tavola, I think of a wine that uses grapes or techniques that are not permitted by the DOC (and now IGT) rules. Was their vineyard never officially classified, or is the wine made in an unusual manner? Are the vines really in France (as with Becker's Pinot Noir Tafelwein)?

Hi Andrew,

Sorry for the late response. I've just returned from Hamburg, which if you've never been, is one hell of a town! I've sent an e-mail to Villa Pistoria to determine exactly why they've opted(?) for the Tafelwein label. There are a number of possibilities ranging from failing a 'typicity' prüfung, grossly over-cropping, not wishing to pay for Amtliche Prüfung Nummer analysis, or simply wishing to opt-out of ridiculous wine labelling laws by which 97% of the entire production of this country is deemed Qualitätswein. It was the case that even a couple of years ago the borders of Tafelwein production in Germany followed exactly the borders of the 13 Weinanbaugebiete, though new Landwein regions have recently been granted to other states (like Schleswig-Holstein which borders Denmark!), so it appears that restrictions are being loosened. I'll let you know what they say.

Cheers,
Bill