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WTN: The West Coast Offline

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Bill Spohn

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WTN: The West Coast Offline

by Bill Spohn » Thu Mar 24, 2011 11:18 am

We had a visit from Bruce and Debbie Hayes from Ontario, so an offline was set up here and along with a couple of locals and Jenise and Bob, who are honorary locals, we also had Clint Hall and Diana come up from Seattle. The theme was West Coast wines. It took poor Bruce a little while to catch onto Jenise’ habit of throwing bread my way whenever she especially approved of something I said, particularly as I had taken care to seat him between me and Jenise, but once he caught on, all was well!

With scallop and grapefruit.

1999 Charles Ellner Brut Champagne – a toasty custardy thing happening in the nose, very good with a clean long savoury finish.

2009 Delille Chaleur Estate – this sauv blanc/Semillon blend certainly favoured the latter varietal. It showed a fair bit of smoky oak in the nose, was smooth in the mouth, with medium body and pretty decent length, and it got toastier as it sat in the glass, the oak perhaps having had insufficient time to blend into the wine.

2009 Buty White – after the inevitable jokes about buty calls (none from me, I would add, and the lack of incoming bread attested to that) we tasted a Columbia Valley wine I am not familiar with and I liked it quiet a bit. Also a white Bordeaux blend but with some added muscadelle. Perhaps it was the addition of that varietal, or perhaps it was a more moderate hand with the oak, but the majority opinion was that this wine was the more pleasant with food, showing a lighter nose, and silky smooth palate presence.

2005 St. Innocent Freedom Hill Chardonnay – the final wine from Willamette Valley was also very nice, showing a very pleasant nose of yeasty bread dough with hints of lemon and vitamin tablets, a creamy mouth feel and very good balance.

We went on to wild mushroom ravioli with:

2004 Copain Pinot Noir Cerise Vd. (Anderson Valley) – a lovely pure clean pinot fruit nose with no detectable heat (it was over 14%) that developed an interesting spearmint component with time in the glass. The heat was detectable in the mouth but it showed good flavour and a lengthy finish.

2001 Arcadian Gary’s Vd. Pinot Noir – a big fruit driven nose that included an earthy element along with red fruit, sweet entry, tasty and long. I preferred this possibly due to the lack of heat from alcohol, but both were good.

We started in on the cabernets between courses and continued them with the main course of lamb chops.

1991 Dunn Napa Cabernet – very dark colour, and a leathery rounded fruit nose, this wine has a fair bit of soft tannin and adequate fruit. It is very pleasant now and IMO will not improve any further as you’d risk losing fruit.

1995 Viader Cabernet (Napa) – this has a lot of cab franc in it and that no doubt lifted the nose, which was excellent, with floral notes and cocoa. Elegant and well balanced, this wine is on top of the drinking curve and does not need any more time. It added a slightly raisined note to the nose later on.

2001 Leonetti Cabernet – a really nice nose on this wine with blackberry, currant, cocoa and spice. Supple wine with soft tannin drinks well now but no rush at all.

1990 Mondavi Reserve Cabernet – nose a tad closed at first but opened nicely showing cocoa, plum and earth notes. Mellow and ready with good acidity.

1992 Beringer Private Reserve Cabernet – fairly dark with plum and leather notes in the nose and the usual cocoa. Very smooth and well integrated on palate with a very long sweet finish . Some anise notes popped up later after time in the glass. Comments from the group noted that this seemed the most ‘complete’ wine with everything where it should be in correct amount. First time I’ve opened this or the Viader since release and nice that they both showed well.

with cheese:

2000 Carmenet Copa de Oro Late Harvest Semillon – dark golden colour, a rather odd nose, with the nuttiness and slight maderisation of a Sherry, which made it a bit edgy, fairly sweet with reasonable acidity. Reminded me of a light Pedro Ximinez rather than a late harvest Semillon. Two half bottles.

Great group and great meal.
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Jenise

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Re: WTN: The West Coast Offline

by Jenise » Thu Mar 24, 2011 3:32 pm

What a treat it was to meet WLDGers Bruce Hayes and Clint Hall as well as their lovely wives. I feel awful that we have lived so close to the Halls for these eight years but had not met until now. Glad that's changed.

1999 Charles Ellner Brut Champagne – Good bubbly! The touch of residual sweetness in this charming bubbly made a great pairing with the amuse bouche of seared scalled with bruleed grapefruit. And the sommelier chose wisely when he followed that with:

2009 Delille Chaleur Estate – This was Clint's bottle, but I bought this wine about a year ago and drank a bottle immediately upon acquisition, and remember it as being tightly wound and lemon-steely. The extent to which the semillon now runs the show was quite a surprise. Straw-colored, with lemon oil, beeswax and a bit of slate on the palate. Very dry finish.

With fresh lobster salad:

2009 Buty White – I'm so glad Clint brought this, as IMO it's one of Washington's best whites. Expertly blended, it has an effusive nose with sweet white flowers that lightens the opening but there's also some determined fresh lemon on the palate, making it a refreshing sipper but also an excellent food wine. I'm a fan of both wines but agree that this showed better last night.

2005 St. Innocent Freedom Hill Chardonnay – I brought this thinking that St. Innocent would be a name Bruce would see a lot of here on WLDG but would probably have not tasted. I vacillated between whether to bring a pinot or a chardonnay, finally deciding that though the pinot could not fail to impress, perhaps an aged Burgundian style west coast chardonnay would do even more. Can't improve on your description, Bill.

With wild mushroom and spinach ravioli in a garlic cream sauce:

2004 Copain Pinot Noir Cerise Vd. (Anderson Valley) – My wine again. I have both the 02 and 04 of this wine and actually grabbed the 02 first, but recent reports on Cellar Tracker suggest that the 02 needs more time and the 04 is in the moment. They were certainly right about the 04. Big aromatics on the nose on sweet pinot fruit with good body that made it the favorite of some, but like you I found the heat marred the finish. I preferred David and Nadine's:

2001 Arcadian Gary’s Vd. Pinot Noir – Garys' Vineyard (not to be pedantic, but I think you'd want to know that it IS Garys'--this vineyard is jointly owned by two guys named Gary) is IMO one of California's best pinot vineyards, and Joe Davis at Arcadian is one of California's best pinot noir makers. All the reasons for both were evident in this wine: red fruit with sweet, warm cherry pie fruit up front, spices in the middle and iron-rich earthy elements completing the picture. Outstanding.

With roasted rack of Salt Spring Island lamb on potato-carrot gratin:

1991 Dunn Napa Cabernet – can't improve on your description but would add graphite.

1995 Viader Cabernet (Napa) – Surprisingly sweet after the Dunn, which I had a hard time adjusting to. Youthful fruit with very resolved tannins.

2001 Leonetti Cabernet – blackberry and espresso with just a hint of soy, and a very nice representative from Washington. Very very very different than the bottle of 01 we opened about two years ago, which was lighter red with unusually mature fruit. Glad to know that our bottle was a fluke, though since it was an orphan I don't know what I'm going to do with this information. :|

1990 Mondavi Reserve Cabernet – Loved this ghost of Mondavi past--I'd almost forgotten that classic tangy, spicy Mondavi nose. Ole Bob would be proud of how well this showed last night.

1992 Beringer Private Reserve Cabernet – But the most perfect bottle in the cabernet flight was this wine. A tangy blend of boysenberry, blackberry and plum fruit with cocoa dust and spice and that long sweet finish. I can't believe you've had this in your cellar for nearly 20 years and are only JUST opening your first bottle. Excellent.

Wiith the cheese plates:

2000 Carmenet Copa de Oro Late Harvest Semillon – I brought this wine because between Clint, Bill, David/Nadine and I, this was the only west coast stickie in any of our cellars! It's just not a forte out here, and there are better wines at better prices from Europe and elsewhere. Deep orange color bordering on tawny, with hazelnuts, tangerine and a bit of burnt caramel. Good acidity kept it from being cloying on the palate. Good. Blind, no one would have guessed the grape.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Bill Spohn

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Re: WTN: The West Coast Offline

by Bill Spohn » Thu Mar 24, 2011 3:55 pm

Jenise wrote:1992 Beringer Private Reserve Cabernet – But the most perfect bottle in the cabernet flight was this wine. A tangy blend of boysenberry, blackberry and plum fruit with cocoa dust and spice and that long sweet finish. I can't believe you've had this in your cellar for nearly 20 years and are only JUST opening your first bottle. Excellent.


Point taken on the Garys' - didn't know that!

As you know, I highly value wine developing tertiary characteristics - so much so that I take the risk of letting some slide past before I taste them (perhaps riskiest with Zinfandel). This was right in my enjoyment window and well worth waiting for!! I also have the 91, 93 and 94 so far untouched. I note that we paid $75 for the 1992 back in the early 90s, so it was never a cheap bottle in BC!
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Bruce Hayes

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Re: WTN: The West Coast Offline

by Bruce Hayes » Tue Mar 29, 2011 9:26 pm

We are a little late in speaking up but we are still in Vancouver and this is the first access I have had to the Internet. Deb and I had a great time, with great friends and great wines. Thank you Jenise for pulling this together.
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Clint Hall

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Re: WTN: The West Coast Offline

by Clint Hall » Sat Apr 02, 2011 5:18 pm

I don't know how I missed this thread until now (Bruce put me onto it today). Anyhow, it was a pleasure meeting evryone, and again many thanks to Jenise for arranging such a beautiful evening.

This was a perfect meal for showing off the kinds of wines that the Northwest does best. The scallops were lovely with the WA Sem-Sauv blends, and to my surprise, to complement the lobster salad, Jenise came up with an exceptional Oregon Chard, which is not a varietal our part of the country is famous for. The mushrooms in the ravioli perfectly complemented the CA Pinots and nothing would have paired much better with the CA and WA Cabs than the lamb chops. And I think Jenise's late harvest semillon did a much better job of dealing with the cheese than would the famous Riesling Ice wines from Inniskillin.

As Bill and Jenise's TNs are right on, there's no reason to add mine, but just a few comments. I expected the DELLILLE CHALEUR ESTATE Sauv-Sem blend to blow away its BUTY counterpart but the opposite was the case, leaving the Delille tasting a little too much like splinters. But the winemker has been lowering the oak in this wine a little every year, and the underlying fruit has always been first rate, so they are headed in the right direction. I thought all the wines were in one way or another enjoyable. Diana agrees, with the exception of the Champagne, which may be because she's more fussy about VA than I am. My WOTN: the luscious 1992 BERINGER PRIVATE RESERVE.
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Jenise

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Re: WTN: The West Coast Offline

by Jenise » Wed Apr 06, 2011 3:29 pm

Clint, good to hear from you. Glad the meal worked out for you--the food at this restaurant is a bit old-school French which sometimes comes off tired, and the kitchen can be inconsistent so I go into something like this crossing my fingers. However, the wine service is always impeccable with fresh glasses for each wine, and I know of almost no United States of American restaurant who would do that. Overall, I was very, very pleased.

Re the Chaleur? I wonder if another bottle of the 09 (not that yours had any detectable flaws) would show identically. After that evening I checked our cellar and the vintage I have is the 07, so Bob and I pulled a bottle and found in it the wine I think you were hoping your 09 to be. In a word, excellent plus.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov

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