2007 Meßmer Burrweiler Schloßgarten Riesling Kabinett Feinherb Muschelkalk
A lighter-bodied Riesling, just barely off-dry, lightly crisp, delicate, and well balanced. Mineral-driven –it definitely shows off the shells and limestone that the name ‘Muschelkalk’ refers to – along with apple, citrus, and mint notes. Very nice.
2007 Dönnhoff Riesling Großes Gewächs Dellchen
The nose is a bit closed at first, but soon opens up to reveal a graceful perfume of raspberries, plumerias, wintergreen, and mountain air. Medium to full-bodied, dry, compact, focused, and velvety, with great finesse and balance. Quite floral and mineral/stony, with flavors of passion fruit, pink grapefruit, red berries, red plums, and apple peel, with hints of salinity and cardamom. Whereas I thought that the 2007 Felsenberg was a model of precision, this is all about elegance and soft texture. As much as I liked the former wine, I actually like this one a bit more.
2006 Forstmeister Geltz Zilliken Saarburger Rausch Riesling Kabinett
At first, this is rather closed; off-dry, round, without a whole lot aromatically, but there is still something that unmistakably hints at Saarburger Rausch to me. With about half an hour, though, this wine picks up more definition, focus, and finesse, combining creamy apple and pear fruit around a precise mineral core, showing notes of limes and green spices, and picking up saline and grapefruit notes on the finish. Still on the round/plump side for Kabinett, but nicely balanced due to ample acidity. Given a few more years, this will be excellent.
2003 Müller-Catoir Haardter Bürgergarten Riesling Spätlese Trocken Im Gehren
Herbal/curried nose. Bone dry, full-bodied, concentrated, somewhat round; very mineral, with notes of limestone, smoke, mint, citrus fruit, turmeric, honey cough drops, and white pepper. This actually seems to have rather high acidity, which is great for a 2003. Unfortunately, the alcohol is also a noticeable 14%.
1989 Hirt-Gebhardt Eltviller Sonnenberg Riesling Auslese
I know nothing about this producer, but figured that this wine was at least worth a try. Quite a disgustingly moldy cork – probably the worst that I have ever seen. Dark brown color suggests a wine that is possibly its peak. Nose of molasses and brown sugar. Full, lightly viscous, lightly to moderately sweet; very mature burnt/brown sugar, coffee, and allspice flavors dominating, along with some tropical/apple fruit in the background, and a note of candied orange peel. The balance is slightly variable from sip to sip.