by Tim York » Wed Mar 23, 2011 12:58 pm
Leaving aside Burgundy, which is the obvious place to look, and the USA, where I have little access, there is now an increasing amount of excellent Pinot Noir being made elsewhere, particularly in other French regions and in Germany, Italy and New Zealand. I hope that some of these are finding their way Stateside.
Red Sancerre (from PN) has left behind its image of a light wine to drink chilled in Parisian bistrots and is now producing some very serious wines with producers like Alphonse Mellot, Vincent Pinard and Vacheron especially prominent. Something similar is happening in Alsace, where the traditional PN used to be little darker and fuller than a rosé; those now being made by, for example, Albert Mann and René Muré are very well regarded. And don't forget red Coteaux Champenois whose wines from PN can have exquisite elegance - Bouzy rouge from several Producers and Ambonnay from Egly-Ouriet. Germany too is acquiring a reputation for PN (Spätburgunder) in regions like the Pfälz, Franken and even as far North as Ahr near Cologne. The warming climate no doubt helps in all these places.
One of the finest non-Burgundian PNs which I have had was from Alto Adige (Sud Tirol) in Northern Italy. Here is a TN from 2009 -
Pinot Nero Barthenau Vigna S. Urbano Alto Adige DOC 1995 – J. Hofstätter is just about the best Pinot Noir which I have had from outside Burgundy. This bottle showed medium body, elegant and pure but complex red and dark fruit with a lot of cherry, still lively acidity, touches of minerals, good length and classical shape on the palate; excellent but possibly a tad faded compared with my memories of a glass at a tasting a couple of years ago; 16.5/20++.
I have also been impressed by PN from New Zealand, particularly from Central Otago, where the cool climate seems very favourable. Here is a TN from the Felton Road range presented at a tasting a couple of years ago. Warning high prices.
Felton Road, Central Otago, New Zealand
By contrast I was much more impressed by the wines here today than on the last occasion. The stimulating presence of Nigel Greening, the owner, no doubt helped. The estate works on biodynamic principles applied pragmatically rather than religiously. Greening agrees that the motivational aspect for the team (Jamie’s placebo effect) is important but also stoutly defends the efficacy of some of the preparations; I have no reason to doubt him.
Felton Road Chardonnay 2007 (€36), with a roughly 10% new oak component, showed lovely creamy white fruit but was still a bit raw on the finish; at present I prefer the Isolation Ridge above but I think that this will blossom with more time; 16/20+ potentially.
Three vintages were shown of Felton Road Pinot Noir (all €46). We are back to pure fruit and focus here. 2004, a cool year, is Greening’s favourite and it certainly showed more harmony and elegance in its tangy rich cherry fruit and balanced linear structure; nearly ready and potentially 17/20. 2003 was richer but with less tang and focus, liquorice notes in its more marked structure and a hint of over-ripeness on the finish; 16/20. 2006 was more closed aromatically and still a touch raw with impressive substance and again liquorice notes in its structure; I guess 16.5/20 potential.
Last edited by Tim York on Sat Mar 26, 2011 8:22 am, edited 1 time in total.
Tim York
But otherwise the first thing that came to my mind was the Pali and I think Brian Loring also has some in this price range. The ones I have tasted were outstanding and still in the bigger style.