2009 Immich-Batterieberg Riesling C.A.I.
Starter wine; Dan Melia (the importer) says roughly 30% of the grapes come from ungrafted rootstock. Liked this a lot, though I seemed to be in a minority - fresh green apples and citrus fruit over a bed of stones; taut, precise and focused with a spine of powerful acidity and a sense of real lightness. It comes across almost dry, but very refreshing.
First flight:
1991 Tahbilk Shiraz 1860 Vines
Mature red fruited flavours framed by developed leathery, earthy and herbal notes on a polished, medium weight frame. There's a sense of restraint and nice balance, though it's not particularly interesting or distinctive.
1992 Tahbilk Shiraz 1860 Vines
Pretty one-note and boring with older red fruited flavours that are starting to fade, and not much developing with time in bottle. It's not quite into generic old red wine territory yet, but it's heading in that direction.
Second flight:
2006 Charles Joguet Chinon Franc de Pied Les Varennes du Grand Clos
Really disappointing given how good the '02 and '05 FdPs were. This has fresh tobacco leaves and red fruits on a polished, medium weight frame, but with a little air it gets increasingly woody as the oak becomes distracting.
2006 Marc Plouzeau Touraine Ante Phylloxera Clos de Maulevrier
Not quite the knockout that my last bottle was, but still very elegant and enjoyable with fresh, pure red fruits and forestal/herbaceous greenness. I'll leave my other bottles alone for some time though.
Third flight:
N.V. Tarlant Champagne La Vigne d'Antan Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut
2000 vintage disgorged Oct 2007. Leaner than other bottles I've encountered with the fruit very lemony and tart initially, but it quickly fleshes out and deepens, developing a lovely perfume of savoury earth, freshly toasted bread and marmalade. There's a wonderful pillowy texture to this and lovely balance, glad to have more.
Fourth flight:
2008 Weiser-Künstler Enkircher Ellergrub Riesling Kabinett
Sponti-yeast funk and florality on the nose leads into a palate full of fresh grapefruit and pear, with herbal and stony nuances emerging over time. Very elegant and polished with restrained sweetness, bright acids and great balance.
2009 Stein St. Aldegunder Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett feinherb
Fresh pear and citrus fruits seasoned with slate and a gentle herbal element with incredible precision and detail to the flavours. There's plenty of acidity here and it finishes almost dry without ever coming across austere. Should get more for the summer.
Fifth flight:
2009 Meulenhof Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spätlese *
From younger vines after flurbereinigung. Poured alongside the Alte Reben bottling from older, ungrafted vines - this comes across sweeter and more forward with fresh floral-tinged apple and peachy fruit over slate and bright acids; very tasty and easy to drink. Meulenhof never disappoints, and I'm loving their 09 lineup.
2009 Meulenhof Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spätlese Alte Reben
This isn't as immediately forward as the one-star with the fruit a little more reticent and a crackery savouriness underneath. With time and air it really develops as the fruit deepens and floral and slatey nuances emerge. Loved this as well, glad I have lots.
Sixth flight:
2002 Carl Schmitt-Wagner Longuicher Maximiner Herrenberg Riesling Spätlese
Fresh Mosel fruit and herbal notes with the start of developing smoky and petrolly accents. Very youthful, vibrant and refreshing. Lovely.
2004 Carl Schmitt-Wagner Longuicher Maximiner Herrenberg Riesling Auslese
Surprisingly developed - more advanced than the '02 Spätlese, though this was a leaking bottle. First impression is of a powerful scent of smoke and petrol, and rich, ripe white fruited flavours accented by herbal and savoury earthy notes. Nicely balanced with the sweetness not overwhelming for an Auslese.
Extras:
2006 Jean Bourdy Côtes du Jura Rouge
Seriously good stuff. Pale, fresh red fruits, gravelly minerality and herbal and leathery accents combining seamlessly into a very elegant, lightweight whole. There's some grainy tannin here, but a lot of the structure comes from its acidity which keeps it very light on its feet, precise and refreshing. Must buy more.
1989 Château d'Yquem
Mike brought a half bottle of this along as an extra. Powerful, layered with honey-drenched apricots, pineapple and other tropical fruits, vanilla cream and slightly developed burnished flavours in a rich, slightly viscous package. There's lots of richness and stuffing here, but also really good acidity that keeps it beautifully balanced and tremendous length. Fantastic, and a real treat!