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WTN: Final four

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Florida Jim

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WTN: Final four

by Florida Jim » Thu Mar 17, 2011 4:15 am

1999 Drouhin, Volnay Clos des Chênes:
13% alcohol; (in honor of the season and you know who) “This wine is awesome, baby!” Beautiful, full aromas of stone, cherry and wild strawberry, not especially complex and showing very young but expansive; dense and full in the mouth with a silken texture, flavors that follow the nose and that same impression of expansion over time; endless finish with grip. Certainly needs another decade in the cellar and has everything one could ask to make the journey. Quintessential Volnay; iron fist, silk glove. Yummy with pasta, marinara and sausage.

1999 Nigl, Riesling Piri Privat:
13% alcohol; unripe pineapple, warm gravel, and flowers on the nose; much the same on the palate in a satin smooth, concentrated and generous style with good body, balance and acidity; very long and completely integrated finish. It may last for years in the cellar but its drinking very well today. Excellent with assorted cheeses.

2005 de Villaine, Bourgogne La Digoine:
12.5% alcohol; unripe strawberry and black raspberry scents with a substantial stone/mineral component make-up a rather disjointed but attractive nose; tart fruit tastes and that same disjointed impression until it has about two hours in the decanter. With air, it knits together very nicely; no disjointedness left although it’s firm, intense and focused; excellent balance and a longer finish than I expected from this bottling. Decanter time made all the difference as this wine smoothed and gained volume with air. Excellent with homemade pizza.

1999 Clos de la Roilette, Fleurie Cuvée Tardive:
13% alcohol; sometimes, only a metaphor will do; like a beautiful woman in her AARP years that can still wear the same size five dress she wore to her prom, femininity undiminished; although now, she fills it out differently and carries herself with a grace and confidence that teenager could only dream of. An honor to be with and a treasure to take home. Drink deeply, now.

2007 Overnoy/Houillon, Arbois Pupillin:
12.5% alcohol; translucent red/brown; smells of pomegranate and decaying leaves; tastes similar with rather assertive acidity and not the depth of the 2006 version; still, there is something haunting in the difference. A taste and smell that bring a smile to both face and heart and excellent with “bubble and squeak.”

1996 Dom. du Closel, Savennières Clos du Papillon – Cuvée Spéciale:
14% alcohol; completely oxidized with a dark brown color and an oloroso nose. Closure failure. My last bottle.
The last two bottles of this have been badly corked.
The first nine bottles in the case were perhaps the best Savennières I ever tasted.
What a shame.

Yeah, I know; more than four.
So?

Best, Jim
Jim Cowan
Cowan Cellars

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