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R. W. Apple, Jr. -- In Memoriam

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R. W. Apple, Jr. -- In Memoriam

by Bob Ross » Wed Oct 04, 2006 10:05 pm

The New York Times reported today that "Johnny" has died.
Obit from the Times; free registration required.

A few key paragraphs:

R.. W. Apple Jr., who in more than 40 years as a correspondent and editor at The New York Times wrote about war and revolution, politics and government, food and drink, and the revenge of living well from more than 100 countries, died early this morning in Washington. He was 71.

The cause was complications of thoracic cancer.

With his Dickensian byline, Churchillian brio and Falstaffian appetites, Mr. Apple, who was known as Johnny, was a singular presence at The Times almost from the moment he joined the metropolitan staff in 1963. He remained a colorful figure as new generations of journalists around him grew more pallid, and his encyclopedic knowledge, grace of expression — and above all his expense account — were the envy of his competitors, imitators and peers.

Mr. Apple enjoyed a career like no other in the modern era of The Times. He was the paper’s bureau chief in Albany, Lagos, Nairobi, Saigon, Moscow, London and Washington. He covered 10 presidential elections and more than 20 national nominating conventions. He led The Times’s coverage of the Vietnam war for two and a half years in the 1960’s and of the Persian Gulf war a generation later and he chronicled the Iranian revolution in between.


Apple's last article appeared on September 30, when he was still alive:

Singapore has produced a raft of gifted chefs of Chinese or Malay background. One of the best is Jereme Leung, an apostle of updated Cantonese cooking, now at the celebrated Whampoa Club in Shanghai; another is Jimmy Chok, currently doing private catering between public engagements. He cooked lunch for my wife, Betsey, and me at a friend’s apartment, and we tasted nothing better on that visit than his hot seared scallops with prawn ravioli and clam laksa leaf nage, a subtle melody of marine flavors.

Sam Leong, the son of a Malaysian chef called the “King of Shark’s Fin,” is the genius overseeing, through executive chefs, two elegant restaurants owned by the Tung Lok Group. At Jade, a bamboo-filled, high-ceilinged room in the Fullerton Hotel (once the General Post Office), we ate a trio of delicate dim sum flavored with chili, ginger and coriander. That was just the beginning of a pretty parade of treats, including crab with pink peppercorns; the most meltingly delicious homemade tofu you could imagine, served with spinach; a shimmering lemongrass gelée; sweet-potato pudding, deep-fried into finger shapes, and exquisite chrysanthemum tea.

At My Humble House, a misnomer if ever there was one, Mr. Leong pursues his passion for ever-lighter, ever-fresher versions of Chinese classics. A glamorous space within the Esplanade, Singapore’s new performing arts center — popular name, “the Durian,” after the smelly fruit — it combines high-backed chairs, floating fabric panels and dazzling lighting effects. A platter of crisp duck skin came with tiny crepes and a spicy dipping sauce: a leaner, meaner Peking duck. Another memorable dish, labeled “Dancing With the Wind,” a steaming soup containing crab, prawns, scallops, mushrooms and (surprise!) red dates in a gentle coconut broth, arrived in a young coconut. “Drifting Clouds of the Autumn Sky” turned out to be fried green tea dumplings.


Singapore: A Repressed City-State? Not in Its Kitchens.

As a voracious reader of the Times for over 40 years, I knew Apple best from his articles, some wonderfully written and filled with keen insights, some abysmally written and filled with errors of facts and judgment.

But my best memory was of a seedy "bar" in Teheran -- a tiny little room where a few Westerners were permitted to gather and drink booze -- this would have been a few months before the fall of the Shah.

Apple was alone and he insisted that I come by his table and drink my Coke with him. For six hours, Johnny and Bob spent a wonderful time telling each other stories, debating political and warfare matters, teaching and learning about various new weapons the US was pitching to the Shah, and drinking three or four different wines that he had somehow tucked into a large briefcase. I wish I had made note of the wines -- this was well before I cared much about wine -- but they were absolutely terrific. And Apple was even better.

A bigger than life personality -- that is for sure.

Regards, Bob
Last edited by Bob Ross on Thu Oct 05, 2006 9:13 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: R. W. Apple, Jr. -- In Memorium

by Dale Williams » Wed Oct 04, 2006 10:22 pm

I was sorry to hear of his death. I enjoyed his analysis for years, and lately his food writing (and my wife Betsy found it funny that he always referred to "my wife Betsey" - I told her Times stylebook rules probably kept him from just saying Betsey). I remember first from reading Crouse's "Boys on the Bus" and Hunter Thompson's "F & L on the Campaign Trail"
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Re: R. W. Apple, Jr. -- In Memorium

by Thomas » Thu Oct 05, 2006 7:48 am

Bob,

I remember that bar in Tehran. Sadly, never met Johnny Apple, but would have loved to have met him. A bright light for those who loved life.
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Re: R. W. Apple, Jr. -- In Memoriam

by Jenise » Thu Oct 05, 2006 10:26 am

I'm so sorry to learn of this, though the obit made me smile. It sounds like something Johnny could have written. I met him myself years ago in Oregon--on the same occasion I met Jancis, can you imagine them both in the same room?--but it wasn't a personal situation like what you describe, it was just for me a brief moment in the company of greatness.

What an amazing memory for you to have--and share. What were you doing in Tehran?
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Re: R. W. Apple, Jr. -- In Memoriam

by Thomas » Thu Oct 05, 2006 4:28 pm

Jenise,

I guess you are asking Bob that question, but if it was directed at me: I lived and worked in Iran for two years, mostly in Tehran--a few years before the 79-80 revolution.

Iranians at the time produced pretty good Riesling in the north and a fine bunch of reds in the south. Don't think they filtered or cold stabilized much.

If I remember correctly, Bob had visited a friend who lived there.

The bar Bob mentioned was one of a few that were hangouts for foreigners. A lot of Brits were there as well as Americans--plus a smattering of many other nationalities. Tehran was both a poor city and an international one.

Apple once wrote a column about being in the bar just before the revolution. I think he talked about a restaurant too.
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Re: R. W. Apple, Jr. -- In Memoriam

by Bob Ross » Thu Oct 05, 2006 6:59 pm

That basically right, Thomas. I went there on a business deal and tagged on a day and a half to see the city with a good friend who grew up there and owned an apartment in a very good neighborhood.

It was a fantastic experience from a travel perspective -- the strong man display was incredible, for example.

And, although our business deal fell through, we learned enough to get great compensation for a company that was nationalized after the fall of the Shah.
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Re: R. W. Apple, Jr. -- In Memoriam

by Clinton Macsherry » Fri Oct 06, 2006 10:06 am

Thomas wrote:Iranians at the time produced pretty good Riesling in the north and a fine bunch of reds in the south.


Any "Shiraz" or its putative descendants there, Thomas?
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Re: R. W. Apple, Jr. -- In Memoriam

by Thomas » Fri Oct 06, 2006 10:13 am

Clinton Macsherry wrote:
Thomas wrote:Iranians at the time produced pretty good Riesling in the north and a fine bunch of reds in the south.


Any "Shiraz" or its putative descendants there, Thomas?


There was one wine named "yech hezaar yech" 1001 (Otto will give us the real pronunciation soon) that I believe has been produced near the city of Shiraz.

The wine was rich and peppery--drank a lot of it--but never could confirm its make up.

I always wondered if the name 1001 referred to the age of the winery, the wine, or the grapes--it certainly was not the vintage. But it probably was an address ;)
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