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WTN: Louis/Dressner tasting last week

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Andrew Bair

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WTN: Louis/Dressner tasting last week

by Andrew Bair » Mon Mar 07, 2011 8:25 pm

Sorry this is a week late. Anyway, I had a lot of fun going through this exciting lineup; it's just taken me a while to type up all of my recent notes.

February 28, 2011 – Louis/Dressner Tasting, The Wine Bottega, Boston, MA

2009 Domaine de la Pépière Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Sur Lie Clos des Briords Vieilles Vignes
Moderate in weight, bone dry, well balanced, and very mineral, with melon, citrus, and lightly peppery notes. More structured than most Muscadets; probably will get even better with a few years. Very good. $16.

2009 Clos du Tue-Boeuf (Puzelat) Cheverny “Frileuse”
A blend of Chardonnay, Fie Gris (Sauvignon Rosé), and Sauvignon Blanc; some from pre-phylloxera vines. Medium-bodied, dry, and well balanced; mineral/earthy, with honeyed tropical fruit and apricot notes. Much more than the sum of its components. Excellent. $25.

2008 Cantina Giardino Sophia IGT Campania
Cantina Giardino is a new producer to me. Two of their wines were poured at this event –based on these, I hope to try more from them in the future.
This wine is 100% Coda di Volpe, skin fermented, and aged in Amphorae. Very earthy nose. Medium-bodied, dry, well balanced with good underlying acidity; just lightly oxidative, with tangerine, mango, herbal, and nutmeg notes. Excellent. $35.

2009 Domaine de Belliviere Coteaux du Loir “Rouge-Gorge”
100% Pineau d’Aunis. Medium-bodied, fresh, with moderate tannin and acidity; lightly mineral/spicy, with bright red berry flavors. Normally, I get a white pepper aroma from Pineau d’Aunis, so I suspect that will develop over time, although it is hard not to drink this now. Very good/excellent. $32.

2009 Thierry Puzelat Touraine Pinot Noir
Light in weight, quite earthy, with blueberry, cocoa, and allspice notes. Very good underlying acidity. A completely different style than any other Pinot Noir that I have had, but very nice nonetheless. $27.

2009 Damien Coquelet Beaujolais-Villages
Earthy nose. Light-bodied, well balanced, with good acidity; shows somewhat funky red berry and cherry notes. Very good. $18.

2008 Dard et Ribo Crozes-Hermitage
Not your typical Syrah; to paraphrase the tasting sheet, this is a classic love it or hate it wine. Nose of salad greens, cooked red cabbage, and paprika. Medium-bodied, well balanced, with good acidity; shows leafy cherry/cranberry notes, with some definite funk. Supposedly this is intended to be drunk young, although I’ll note that there are not too many Crozes that are particularly ageworthy. Anyway, I thought that it was quite nice, though maybe just a little pricey at $40.

2009 Roagna Dolcetto d’Alba DOC
Last year, I had Roagna’s 2005 Dolcetto, and thought that it was one of the best Dolcettos that I have had. The 2009 is just as good – certainly less evolved, but again, with impressive balance, and enough structure to develop for several years. Medium-bodied, moderately tannic, with earthy/spicy dark berry notes. I’m sure that it will be even more interesting a few years from now. Excellent value for $17.

2008 Cantina Giardino Aglianico d’Irpinia IGT
Moderately full-bodied, fresh, moderately tannic, with good underlying acidity. Shows notes of cherries, mixed berries, minerals, and black pepper. Very good. $30.
Note: Irpinia – confusingly – can be either an IGT or a DOC.

2007 Camillo Donati Malvasia dell’Emilia IGT Dolce Frizzante “Il Mio”
100% Malvasia di Candia, bottle and skin fermented. Nose is an intriguing, addictive mixture of mace (the spice) and sage. Medium-bodied, sweet, well balanced, with good underlying acidity, and tropical fruit/earthy/orange zest flavors. Again, I really enjoyed the nose. Excellent; even better than the dry version that I tried last fall. $25.
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Re: WTN: Louis/Dressner tasting last week

by Rahsaan » Mon Mar 07, 2011 8:53 pm

Andrew Bair wrote:2008 Dard et Ribo Crozes-Hermitage
Not your typical Syrah; to paraphrase the tasting sheet, this is a classic love it or hate it wine. Nose of salad greens, cooked red cabbage, and paprika..


Is anyone supposed to love the salad greens, cooked red cabbage and paprika in this wine? Sounds like an off bottle. At least to my palate. It its best this wine is a joyous simple natural wine Northern rhone syrah. At its worst it includes funky flavors like cabbage and greens.

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