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WTN: Thanks, Eric

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Florida Jim

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WTN: Thanks, Eric

by Florida Jim » Sun Mar 06, 2011 7:32 am

1999 Juge, Cornas Cuvée SC:
13% alcohol; a lovely wine with a fundamental problem; it smells like something musty or rotting got mixed into terrific Cornas; I don’t believe this is corked (and neither does Diane; she being more sensitive to it than I) but whatever it is, the flaw ruins the experience. There is so much great fruit with a distinct sauvage character to it, that I don’t think TCA is the problem. Regardless, a shame; not undrinkable, but close.
(BTW, 24 hours in the decanter didn’t make much difference.)

1999 Texier, Côte Rôtie VV:
13% alcohol, substantial sediment; the wine that inspired me to make syrah; very expressive nose with syrah fruit, black olive, smoked bacon, ash and all sorts of nuance, but above all else, fruit; much the same on the palate with loads of fruit set-off nicely with nuance, structure and complexity, intense, concentrated, balanced, both sweet and savory, and, achingly long. My benchmark for Côte Rôtie and so wonderfully of its place as to make me want to speak French. With risotto and Rancho Gordo® scarlet runner beans, the stuff of dreams.
A life list wine. Oh my!

1996 Roumier, Morey St-Denis Clos de la Bussiere 1er Cru:
13.5% alcohol; a fine nose that is Morey to a tee; similar in the mouth, resolved, elegant, soft (but not flabby) and complex, good fruit, good balance; medium length, pretty finish. A very nice wine . . . but no vitality. Excellent Burgundy, a good Morey, but a blasé 1er.

2009 Triennes, Rosé:
13% alcohol, about $10, from a property owned by Aubert de Villaine and Jacques Seysses, primarily made of Cinsault; pale salmon color; smells of flowers, salt and stone-pit fruit; flavors follow the nose and it has a stony/mineral undertone that never lets it cloy. Fresh, clean, bone dry and good for both porch refreshment and light meals.

2007 Dom. J. Chamonard, Morgon:
12.5% alcohol; of its place on the nose and palate with focused fruit and a dark, earthen flavor that either lends it distinction or detracts from the fruit, depending on your point of view. Needs time in the decanter but was expressive accompaniment to pressed Cuban sandwiches and Caesar salad.

Best, Jim
Jim Cowan
Cowan Cellars

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