WTN: 2008 Domaine Cabirau "Malgre les Fonctionnaires"

Cotes du Roussillon.
70% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 10% Carignan.
Very dark, opaque in the glass. Black fruits, blackberry with a hit of red fruit. Spice and herb laced with black pepper and beef notes. Silky and full in the mouth. Very rich and fresh. Wonderful.
14.5% Alc/vol. $18 case buy.

Drew

A dark rich 14.5% grenache is probably not my style, but one has to love the cuvee name. Any idea of a specific backstory to the name? Or is it just a general swipe at bureaucracy? (It sounds like it is an AOC wine, so that can't be the issue).

This is a matter of varieties. You can't make a 100% grenache in Roussillon. a least 20% of syrah, IIRR and maybe something else. Kravitz wanted to make a 100% grenache and had to rent some syrah vineyard to meet the aoc requirement. So officially there is something else than grenache in it. I don't know for real.
A very modern, rich and creamy style. Surely not for you Rahsaan.

This was taken from the importers site.

Domaine Cabirau


After 27 years in the wine business, HPS President Dan Kravitz took the plunge and purchased 13.5 acres of vineyard land in the Roussillon! The Domaine (taking its name "Cabirau" after the name of the vineyard itself) is in the village of Maury, which will receive its own sub-appellation for Côtes du Roussillon next year. It is planted entirely to Grenache, and is comprised of 12 almost-contiguous parcels on a high stony hill just below the famed old Cathar fortress of Queribus. 10 acres are planted with 20-25 years old vines, with vines in remaining acreage averaging more than 60 years in age.

For the first vintage (2007), winemaker Tony Gonzalez (of the Peña co-op in the neighboring village of Cases de Pene) vinified the wine from the 10 acres of younger vines. 1,000 cases of Vin de Pays Grenache were produced, and named "Serge & Tony" after the winemaker and vigneron, Serge Soulatge, that tends to Dan's vines. The old-vines offering was vinified by Jacques Castany and Pascal Dieunidou, of the renowned Domaine de l'Edre, in Vingrau. They produced 500 6-packs of Vin de Pays Grenache, named "La Bonté des Amis" ("The Kindness of Friends"). Despite many requests, Dan can't get a bill for their winemaking services.

In April 2009, Dan became a full-fledged member of La Tautavelloise, a progressive, forward-thinking cooperative located in the village of Tautavel, about 9 miles from Maury. For the 2008 vintage (which for Cabirau was even better than the fantastic, maiden 2007 vintage), the two wines were vinified at La Tautavelloise by winemaker Nicolas Burger. The 2008 "Serge & Nicolas" is similar to the 2007 "Serge & Tony" cuvée in that it is a pure, Vin de Pays Grenache. The difference is that this year it includes an old-vines component that was not available for the 2007 "Serge & Tony" cuvée. While Dan was thrilled with the quality of his Grenache offerings, he really wanted to produce an AOC "Côtes du Roussillon". Despite Cabirau's prime terroir and wealth of old-vines Grenache, French regulations prohibited this, as they required a minimum of 20% Syrah and 10% of three other permitted varietals. By negotiating a vineyard lease with Serge Soulatge (who is also a member of La Tautavelloise), Dan was also able to incorporate some excellent Syrah and Carignan into the blend, and the wine was designated AOC "Côtes du Roussillon". This cuvée was subsequently labeled "Malgré les Fonctionnaires", ("In Spite of the Bureaucrats").

Dan is thrilled to have his own wines, which so far have been well received in the market and by the press. He hopes to one day achieve his goal of a sustainable estate in one of France's best, most affordable appellations. Wish him luck!

Thanks for the info. Although the name might have been even more appropriate if the wine were 100% grenache and he chose to go without the AOC designation.

A very modern, rich and creamy style.

Yes Eric but without the "over the top" oak. I crave this style once and a while, almost like a chocolate fix, and this will well satisfy
when that craving emerges.

Drew

A very modern, rich and creamy style.

Yes Eric but without the "over the top" oak. I crave this style once and a while, almost like a chocolate fix, and this will well satisfy
when that craving emerges.

Drew

I totally agree, Drew.

In my book, modern as very little to do with oak. It is more about destemming, high maturity, extraction, low acid... Most of the Chateauneufs taste very modern to me without seeing any new oak.