The William Fevre Chablis 2009 vintage was recently released. And it is looking and tasting good.
As always Fevre manages to produce exemplary wines, and the 2009 vintage is no exception, with consistently fine wine in every iteration, from the Chablis AOC to the Chablis Grand Cru AOC, with several notable Premier Cru AOC in the lineup.
There is some fatness, some ‘gras’, to the 2009 vintage, which is currently showing generous upfront fresh fruit within the standard Chablis format. This is one of those tantalizing early-drinking vintages, where the oft mentioned “window” is wide open right now and will continue so for a while before it goes into that mysterious closed period so it can emerge like a butterfly into something resonant and different. Sage advice would be to have a couple now and save several for the then, else you will curse yourself for drinking too hastily. (But with great Chablis, isn’t that always the way it is?)
Chablis Domaine
To maintain the essential vibrancy of the cold climate fruit, this Chardonnay is stored after fermentation in stainless steel vats, with only 10% seeing any oak. The subsequent richness from the presence of the lees is a wonderful addition to the vivacity of the wine. There’s lively citrus, a tangy touch of grapefruit, crisp green apple, and soft white peach, touched with minerality and bonded by acidity. It is excellent basic Chablis from one of the finest producers, and offers a perfect entry to the wonders of Chablis at an extremely attractive price.
Chablis Premier Cru Vaillons Domaine
The Vaillons is always a favorite of the Fevre house, and the 2009 continues the tradition. There’s more body, partially for the intact lees, partially because the wine sees 50% oak barrel aging, with the rest in stainless steel. It is perhaps more tightly clenched at first than the other offerings, but the same fresh fruit is there, lurking not very stealthily under the tightness, and the wine will likely age and develop splendidly. This is worth an investment where the maturity will provide more than adequate reward.
Chablis Premier Cru Vaulorent Domaine
This may be the surprise of the vintage for Fevre! It is an intense, powerful, concentrated, focused wine that only hints at the promise of what maturity will bring. There is fresh citrus up front, tart apple, fresh peach, a more intense minerality from the chalky soil, and that inescapable smell of oyster shells and ocean air. For some time the Vaulorent parcel was included as part of Vaillons, but now this portion, pressed hard up against Les Preuses, is shining on its own. It’s a delicious, thrilling mouthful now, and will only get better in the future. Quite impressive!
Chablis Grand Cru Bougros “Cote Bouguerots” Domaine
If ever proof was needed of the validity of the French idea of the importance of place and the identification of specific quality vineyards, Chablis Grand Cru would be immediately offered up in testimony. Even after the intensity of the Vaulorent preceding, this Bougros is a significant ratchet up in grand style. There’s evidently more wood here from greater use of oak barrels---but never enough to overwhelm or suppress the magnificent freshness of the fruit or the lean, taut frame it’s displayed upon. This is very dense wine, compact, and highly complex. There’s not quite as much crispness in the apple, but in turn you get more cider spice aromas and flavors. It’s a beautiful balancing act between being taut and nervy and racy on one hand and being full-bodied and opulent on the other. Only time will tell, of course, but it’s a good bet the opulence will win out.
Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos Domaine
Simply put: stunning in every way. As good as it gets (forget the Nicholson movie). Finesse and power can successfully coexist, and this is proof of it. Superb in its complexity, it keeps the nose beguiled in analysis and the mouth engaged in enjoyment. Substantial minerality, precisely etched fruits, white flowers, the brisk tang of cider, oyster shells, iodine and sea breezes, wet stones and tingling acidity tying it all together. It begs for drinking rather than miserly technical tasting, even in its obvious adolescence. It’s the kind of wine you impatiently wait on to see what it will become.
