The place for all things wine, focused on serious wine discussions.

Young German Riesling & Aged Pauillac with Lunch.

Moderators: Jenise, Robin Garr, David M. Bueker

no avatar
User

Noel Ermitano

Rank

Wine guru

Posts

850

Joined

Mon Sep 10, 2007 2:28 am

Young German Riesling & Aged Pauillac with Lunch.

by Noel Ermitano » Tue Mar 01, 2011 12:27 pm

The boys were on holiday today, so we took the opportunity to bring them along for a lunch at Antonio's - a belated wedding anniversary really, since we didn't have the opportunity to celebrate in January due to my dad's sudden hospitalization at the time.

Image

Over glasses of 2008 Domaine Tempier Bandol Rosé sent over by Rene & Aimee (who also happened to be having lunch there), each of us chose our own dishes as follows:

Image
Escargots de Bourguignonne for the youngest.

Image
Gratinated Portobello with Foie Gras for the youngest (shared with Catha & his brothers).

Image
Pâté de Foie Gras with Crostini for the eldest.

Image
Steak Tartare for the second, which he shared with Catha.

Image

Foie Gras Raclette for me. With these appetizers, we enjoyed a bottle of 2008 Selbach-Oster Zeltlinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Rotlay Spätlese - A gift from Rocky & Apple. This has a crowd-pleasing personality, very accessible and dangerously drinkable (the eldest said that it was perfect with his pâté de foie gras and that "People who are just starting to drink wine will like this."). Youthfully and pleasantly zippy, the acidity is just enough to give good brightness to the very ripely-sweet canteloupe, honeydew and minor peach flavors (there is suggestion of honeysuckle as well). There is a bit of a slate edge in it, but quite slight. Again, dangerously drinkable. Very easy-going and easy to like.

Predictably, it went well in varying degrees with the appetizers that had foie gras in them (less so with my foie gras raclette because it was mostly raclette); but the second said it was too fruity and sweet for his steak tartare. The youngest didn't have any wine, of course, but I'm sure the wine was too sweet for his escargots anyway.

Image
The boys have at it.

Image

Next came our salads. Except for me, everyone else had Antonio's Farm Mesclun Salad with Bleu d'Auvergne Crumble, Glazed Walnuts, Dried Currants & Cranberries with Raspberry Vinaigrette. The youngest is the least into salads of our boys, but he put a really good dent into his without any encouragement.

Image

I had the Romaine Salad with Crispy Prosciutto & Anchovy Vinaigrette; which, coincidentally, Rene & Aimee had as well.

Image

We then all had the Soup of the Day which, today, was a very flavorful, yet, light on the palate, Potato & Onion Soup. Very well executed. Rene mentioned they really liked this as well. Thereafter, our main courses arrived.

Image

Two orders of Duck Leg Confit Atop Young French Beans & Potatoes Dauphinoise - one order each for the second and Catha. I've said it before; I'll say it again: Antonio's makes the very best duck leg confit in the Philippines - only here is the combination of true outer crispness married to true inner juiciness. Always superb.

Image
Grilled Beef Fillet with Garlic-Mustard Cream Sauce & Fries for the youngest.

Image
Herb Roasted Rack of Lamb with Cardamom Beurre Blanc for the eldest. he liked this a lot, but tasted mine and admitted mine was better.

Image

Barbecued Lamb Chops with Fries for me as I wanted something simple for my red. I must say that this was absolutely perfect - from the quality of the lamb, the precision of doneness to the seasoning. Beautiful. The glaze was subtle enough to let the lamb itself shine.

I'd say this is one of the best lamb dishes I've ever had - the only others that immediately come to mind as comparatively memorable were those at Jesús de Madrazo's lunch at Bodegas y Viñedos Contino (La Rioja Alavesa) and at Claude Darroze's restaurant in Langon (Gironde, Acquitaine). I've had the lamb chops in L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon (Paris) twice, and, while very nice both times, Tonyboy Escalante's, without a doubt, beats it hands down.

Image

With our main courses, we had a bottle of 1979 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande (the second within a week, actually, the other bottle from the Vigneron last Thursday). This bottle was in better shape than the one I opened with Miguel, Rene & Santi during our Christmas lunch 2010 at Mamou. Serene, softly loamy, elegant, seductive in its bottle-age sweetened veils of fruit, violets, mushrooms and pencil lead shavings. Delicious wine as usual. The youngest, who doesn't enjoy wine yet asked for a sip of this.

Image

I sent a couple of glasses of it blind, through the eldest, to Rene & Aimee (Rene obviously drank his down quicker than Aimee did) with a request for Rene to guess what it was. In just a couple of minutes, he texted me saying it was an aged Pauillac. He was right on the button.

Desserts were shared:

Image

Dark Chocolate Soufflé with Cardamom & Crème Anglaise for me - a bit disappointing as the bottom was not perfectly done (some half-baked batter stuck to my spoon as I cut it to pour in the crème Anglaise) and the taste was a bit eggy. Didn't finish this.

Image
Assorted Sorbets chosen by the eldest as he was already quite full.

Image
Flourless Chocolate Cake chosen by the youngest. The kids said the inside was "mushy, not molten", but was nice enough.

Image

Poached Pear with Vanilla Ice Cream chosen for Catha who favors this dessert. She said it was just fair enough. There are better ones around Metro Manila.

Image

Chocolate Mint Parfait chosen by me. Cold and stiff - a tartufo really - the mint outer layer tasted of crème de menthe. Quite nice, and certainly pretty to look at, but I couldn't finish an entire serving of this myself as the sweetness gets you after a few small bites.

In all, though, we had a great meal. Not only is Antonio's ambiance so genteel and elegant in its simplicity, not only is the Tagaytay weather an added incentive for the trek, the level of cuisine is definitely world class. Sincerely.
no avatar
User

David M. Bueker

Rank

Childless Cat Dad

Posts

36368

Joined

Thu Mar 23, 2006 11:52 am

Location

Connecticut

Re: Young German Riesling & Aged Pauillac with Lunch.

by David M. Bueker » Tue Mar 01, 2011 1:24 pm

Noel,

Thank you once again for a lovely and mouthwatering report.

The Selbach is a wine I buy vintage after vintage (do seek out the Schmitt and Arnrecht bottlings as well), and while I may drink a few young, I prefer to have them age quite a bit. The Anrecht is a specific sub-parcel of the Zeltinger Sonnenuhr that previously belonged to the J. J. Prum estate prior to the fleurbereinigung (vineyard reorganization). The 2008 registers as high level auslese without much or any botrytis, and is only put out as spatlese due to the higher-than- recently-normal levels of acidity. Delicious stuff that will last & improve for decades in my opinion.

The '79 Pichon Lalande is a special wine for me, as that was the Bordeaux where I "got it" so to speak. It was served blind in a tasting back in 1999 or so, and just hit me like a thunderbolt.
Decisions are made by those who show up
no avatar
User

JC (NC)

Rank

Lifelong Learner

Posts

6679

Joined

Mon Mar 27, 2006 12:23 pm

Location

Fayetteville, NC

Re: Young German Riesling & Aged Pauillac with Lunch.

by JC (NC) » Tue Mar 01, 2011 2:19 pm

I really enjoyed the writeup and the photos. You could probably make a living as a food photographer should you be so inclined.
no avatar
User

Bob Parsons Alberta

Rank

aka Doris

Posts

10904

Joined

Tue Mar 21, 2006 3:09 pm

Re: Young German Riesling & Aged Pauillac with Lunch.

by Bob Parsons Alberta » Tue Mar 01, 2011 7:32 pm

JC (NC) wrote:I really enjoyed the writeup and the photos. You could probably make a living as a food photographer should you be so inclined.


Noel has a very good eye, seen his art collection hanging on the walls in his house??
no avatar
User

Jay Labrador

Rank

J-Lab's in da house!

Posts

1357

Joined

Fri Mar 24, 2006 10:34 am

Location

Manila, Philippines

Re: Young German Riesling & Aged Pauillac with Lunch.

by Jay Labrador » Tue Mar 01, 2011 9:20 pm

Is that barbecued lamb new? I don't remember seeing this on the menu although I haven't been to Antonio's since the middle of last year.
Three be the things I shall never attain:
Envy, content, and sufficient champagne.
no avatar
User

Noel Ermitano

Rank

Wine guru

Posts

850

Joined

Mon Sep 10, 2007 2:28 am

Re: Young German Riesling & Aged Pauillac with Lunch.

by Noel Ermitano » Wed Mar 02, 2011 6:46 am

David M. Bueker wrote:Noel,

Thank you once again for a lovely and mouthwatering report.

The Selbach is a wine I buy vintage after vintage (do seek out the Schmitt and Arnrecht bottlings as well), and while I may drink a few young, I prefer to have them age quite a bit. The Anrecht is a specific sub-parcel of the Zeltinger Sonnenuhr that previously belonged to the J. J. Prum estate prior to the fleurbereinigung (vineyard reorganization). The 2008 registers as high level auslese without much or any botrytis, and is only put out as spatlese due to the higher-than- recently-normal levels of acidity. Delicious stuff that will last & improve for decades in my opinion.

The '79 Pichon Lalande is a special wine for me, as that was the Bordeaux where I "got it" so to speak. It was served blind in a tasting back in 1999 or so, and just hit me like a thunderbolt.

My pleasure, David.

I enjoyed that Selback and so did my kids. Thankfully, I see it is very cheap and I will order a bunch of it. At that low price, I'll open it anytime - old, middle-aged, teen-aged, young, whatever - for so long as it is enjoyable.

As regards the PL, as far as I recall offhand (which, these days, isn't saying much), I've only had from the '70s PL the '75, '78 and '79 - but multiple times each. The '79 is my favorite amongst those 3. I don't even remember anymore how many of those I've opened since I first tasted it back in July '06. Good stuff.

JC (NC) wrote:I really enjoyed the writeup and the photos. You could probably make a living as a food photographer should you be so inclined.

Thanks, JC. I wish!

Bob Parsons Alberta. wrote:Noel has a very good eye, seen his art collection hanging on the walls in his house??

Why thank you, Bob! I certainly like them!

Jay Labrador wrote:Is that barbecued lamb new? I don't remember seeing this on the menu although I haven't been to Antonio's since the middle of last year.

Hey, J. That dish must've been put on the menu shortly after your last visit then.

Best to all,

N

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Amazonbot, Bing [Bot], ClaudeBot and 3 guests

Powered by phpBB ® | phpBB3 Style by KomiDesign