Vincent Gaudry Sancerre "La Tournebride" 2009
I usually dislike Sauvignon Blanc very much. But I enjoyed the previous vintage of this, and I was also very favourably impressed by this 2009. I think this is because it doesn't smell or taste of any stereotype of the grape: there is no cat's piss or gooseberry aromas, no sensation - as there is with almost all NZ examples I have so far seen - of a mix of over- and under-ripe grapes, there is no overwhelming grassiness as I sometimes sense in the Loire examples. Rather, I finally feel like I am tasting the grape itself rather than something made to fit a stereotype of what it should be. No doubt this is due to the terrible situation of what type of Sauvignon Blancs have been available here, so it is wonderful that Funky Wine Imports has this one for sale.
The problem with this not fitting into any stereotype of Sauvignon Blanc is that I have great difficulties in describing it. It is very ripe and fruity but not at all tropical or veering toward exotic fruit aromas. Instead it has an almost Chenin-like profile with quince and quinine and yellow fruits, except it is more piercing than Chenin. Rich, full bodied, ripe but still racy and refreshing. I did prefer the 2008 for its cut and precision, but this 2009 is not far behind. Excellent.

