Maximin Grünhäuser Abstberg Riesling 1998 – C.von Schubert – Alc.8.5%. I had half a dozen bottles of this which I thought I had drunk up with great pleasure about 5 years ago but I found this forgotten bottle. Had I not greatly admired and enjoyed a recent taste of a Herrenberg QbA 1990 offered by Dr. von Schubert at an importer’s tasting here, I would have expected this simple QbA to have become flat after 12 years but in fact it was still drinking beautifully. It perhaps seemed a tad sweeter and not quite so crisp and lively as before but in compensation it showed greater complexity and depth with lovely aromatics and minerality (especially refined petrol hints) and that inimitable MSR juicy mouth-watering acidity. IMO this wine could have been sold honourably as Kabinett but perhaps it fell short on some technical specification; 16/20++.
Jurançon sec 2006 – Lapeyre – Alc.13% - (€9 for 2009) made from Gros & Petit Manseng. Earlier bottles were delightfully crisp but this one, which I had held back, had now developed more subtlety with delightfully honeyed notes and minerals speaking more clearly. I am a big fan of Jurançon from estates like this one and Charles Hours; 16/20 QPR!.
And now for two wines from half bottles at a restaurant on St.Valentine’s day
Chablis 2009 – Domaine La Meulière (€11/bottle at a wine merchant) was quite round and creamy with less minerality and crispness of acidity than my ideal (a function of vintage?) but well suited to its quite rich pairing which included some foie gras; 15/20.
Château Larmande St.Émilion grand cru 2004 was maybe a year or two on the young side showing medium body, nicely round savoury red fruit with a fresh leafy touch, smooth/lively acidity, decent depth and tannic structure. I must prefer my St.Émilion like this to the plushy, jammy and over-priced concoctions which are becoming quite common; 16/20.