by Andrew Bair » Sat Feb 19, 2011 6:35 pm
Thursday, February 17, 2011 – “Epic” Wine Tasting, The Wine Bottega, Boston, MA
"Epic" is their word, but I certainly thought that this event lived up to its billing. I am quickly realizing that the Wine Bottega is Boston's answer to Chambers Street, focusing on terroir-driven wines, many of them either esoteric and/or natural.
1989 Josef Longen Thörnicher Ritsch Riesling Spätlese
Longen is not a producer that I was familiar with, but Savio Soares made a good discovery here, at least with this particular wine. Very elegant and well balanced, lightly sweet, floral, and mineral, with peach/pear fruit. Excellent. $35.
2008 Peter Michael Winery Chardonnay Knights Valley “Ma Belle-Fille’
Full, focused, well balanced, with good underlying acidity. The oak is complementary and well integrated into the wine, rather than excessive or overwhelming. Shows notes of apples, tropical fruits, nuts, honey, spices, and licorice. $90.
2008 Monastero Suore Cistercensi Coenobium Rusticum IGT Lazio
A blend of Malvasia, Trebbiano, Verdicchio, and Grechetto. The second time that I have tried this particular wine. Moderately full, elegant, well balanced, and moderately tannic; nutty and somewhat oxidative, with floral, honeyed, orange, and mineral notes. Excellent once again. $35.
2008 Domaine Joseph Chamonard Morgon Le Clos de Lys
Chamonard was one of the Morgon “Gang of Five”, but these wines were not imported into the US until recently. Medium-bodied, lightly tannic, focused, and well balanced; a very mineral Beaujolais, with notes of red fruits and some spices. Very good/excellent. $32.
2007 Philippe Pacalet Gevrey-Chambertin
Floral/somewhat animal nose. Medium-bodied, focused, elegant, moderately tannic, with good underlying acidity; shows plum, red berry, and mineral notes. Very good+. $85.
2006 Clos Rougeard Saumur-Champigny "Clos"
The "basic" cuvée from Rougeard. Light to moderate in weight, full of finesse, silky, less tannic, with good underlying acidity. Shows notes of red and blue fruits, minerals, earth, and tobacco. There is a roasted chili pepper note on the finish. Excellent – I really liked this. $65.
2005 Château Rayas Côtes-du-Rhône Château de Fonsalette Réserve
50% Grenache, 35% Cinsault, and 15% Syrah. Full, focused, well balanced, quite complex for a CdR, with notes of dark berries, garrigue, earth, spices, minerals, and bark. Excellent. $70.
2001 Bodegas Hermanos Peciña Rioja Reserva “Señorío de P. Peciña”
95% Tempranillo, 3% Graciano, and 2% Grenache. Full, silky, moderately tannic, well balanced, with good acidity; shows berry, plum, and baking spice notes accented with toasty vanilla, in a style similar to that of López de Heredia. Excellent; still has a way to go. $32.
2005 Roagna Barolo Vigna Rionda
Full, moderately tannic, well balanced, elegant and velvety, with notes of berries, tar, roses, and minerals, with just a bit of leather. An excellent, finesse-driven Barolo. $65.
2006 Paolo Bea San Valentino IGT Umbria
A blend of 70% Sangiovese, 15% Montepulciano, and 15% Sagrantino. Normally this is a DOC Montefalco, but the authorities decided that this vintage was too light in color, and also slightly oxidized, so it got “stuck” with the IGT designation.
Interesting floral/tangerine nose. Moderately full-bodied, moderately tannic, fresh, and elegant, with notes of mixed berries, blood oranges, spices, and roses; maybe a slight earthiness. Excellent. $35.
2005 Paolo Bea Sagrantino di Montefalco DOCG Secco Vigna Pagliaro
Closed on the nose. Full, tightly wound, yet elegant and nicely balanced, with stony, earthy, somewhat animal, mixed berry notes. Already excellent, and should be very special when all is said and done. $95.
2004 Azienda Agricola Le Ragose Amarone della Valpolicella DOC Classico
65% Corvina, 25% Rondinella, 5% Molinara, and 5% other local grapes. Full-bodied, well balanced, dry, with good finesse; shows notes of dried berries and cherries; earth, herbs, and spices. Excellent. $65.
NV Cocchi Barolo Chinato DOCG
From 500 ml bottle. Full-bodied, sweet, balanced, with more weight than any “regular” Barolo I have had. Has flavors of roasted dark fruits, roses, rosemary, quinine, chipotle peppers, and hot paprika. This is the first Barolo Chinato that I have had, and I wasn’t really expecting it to have as much spicy heat as it did. Very good, but one small glass would probably be enough for me. $45.