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WTN: Lunch at the Intercon's Prince Albert

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Jay Labrador

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WTN: Lunch at the Intercon's Prince Albert

by Jay Labrador » Thu Feb 17, 2011 9:28 am

Notes from Wednesday's lunch at Prince Albert, Manila Intercontinental Hotel.

It's been a couple of years since I had been to Prince Albert. At one time, this was among the very top restaurants in Manila. I guess the proliferation of many other restaurants, especially those outside hotels, just eclipsed the reputation of this venerable institution. It is, however, a tribute to this place's former preeminence that so many of us at this lunch have good memories of celebrating special occasions here. Here's where two of our group proposed marriage, one had his first date with his wife here, and this was the favorite restaurant of my wife. So it was great that Vince proposed a lunch here.

Restaurant manager Francis, who has been at the restaurant forever, made sure we were well taken care of. Aside from Francis, there were other veteran staff around who put on a show for us with the preparation of the Caesar salad and Steak Tartar tableside.

Aside from the mushroom soup, which lacked salt, the food was great. The star, of course, was the prime rib, which is what this restaurant is famous for. The small portion of 200g was good enough for me. Regarding wine service, I think it’s necessary for an upgrade in the glasses which are adequate but are too small for reds. The water glass is actually better suited for red wines. I think it was a Schott-Zwiesel Burgundy glass if I’m not mistaken.

I arrived early but a couple of guys were there before me. Not wanting to waste any time, we started opening bottles soon after I arrived.

Lustau Amontillado del Puerto Jose Luis Gonzalez Obregon (Almacenista) – Although I volunteered to bring Champagne, I changed my mind at the last minute and brought this sherry instead. Deep amber. Touch of rancio on the nose. Rich, with a streak of sweetness throughout. Deep flavors. I can imagine this would be quite versatile. Good as an aperitif or with a cheese course. Lovely drink. As I understand it, Almacenista refers to someone who matures sherry but does not sell it on the open market. In this case, the wine was matured in the solera of Jose Luis Gonzalez Obregon and purchased by Lustau for sale.

Chateau Pichon Longueville Baron 1994 – Still a good, dark color. Lots of mushroom on the nose and palate. Very dry and savory. Still firm in the finish. Quite good.

Tempier Bandol Rose 2007 – Orange/pink. Very fragrant. Excellent and refreshing, as usual.

Zind-Humbrecht Riesling Clos Hauserer 2008 – Dry and lemony but there’s an intriguing honey-like note running through this wine. Interesting but not my type.

Bachelet Cote de Nuits-Villages 2007 – Coffee grounds. Tart raspberry. Very dry, with a rather unpolished rustic feel to it.

Alto PS 2001 – I let this sit in the glass for an hour before drinking it. Some Coke on the nose but others observed that it blew off after an additional hour in the glass although by that time, I had finished my share. Sweet fruit with barnyard notes underneath. Layered and complex. Excellent wine with many years of life.

Faiveley Meursault Les Charmes 2008 – Lemon drops. Lean. Needs time to develop. Nothing special at this stage.

Faiveley Latricieres Chambertin Grand Cru 1998 – Good fruit. Cherry and strawberry. Round and easy to drink. Not particularly complex but drinking very well now. There may still be a bit of upside to this, though.

Barthod Chambolle-Musigny 2006 – Juicy, tart, good fruit. Very good.

Pavillion Rouge du Chateau Margaux 2001 – Full and sweet. You could mistake this for a Napa, without the oak. Very attractive. Round, no edges. Excellent.

Disznoko Tokaji 6 Puttonyos 1995 - Searing acidity balances the sweetness. Candied orange with some cinnamon, cloves and other spices. Bitter orange marmalade finish. Good but I was expecting more.
Three be the things I shall never attain:
Envy, content, and sufficient champagne.
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R Cabrera

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Re: WTN: Lunch at the Intercon's Prince Albert

by R Cabrera » Thu Feb 17, 2011 10:50 am

Jay,

Sounds like you had a wonderful time and had good wines. Thanks for the TNs.

Although,I partly agree with you, and was somewhat surprised to read, that with the proliferation of better non-hotel restaurants in Manila, that Prince Albert continued on.

Your note brings back my last experience just a few years ago at Prince Albert, hard-to-forget for me and my party but in a weird and somewhat comical sort-of-way, but which totally divert from the wonderful ones that you and your party seem to have had.

Cheers.

RC
Ramon Cabrera
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Jay Labrador

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Re: WTN: Lunch at the Intercon's Prince Albert

by Jay Labrador » Thu Feb 17, 2011 10:56 am

R Cabrera wrote:Your note brings back my last experience just a few years ago at Prince Albert, hard-to-forget for me and my party but in a weird and somewhat comical sort-of-way, but which totally divert from the wonderful ones that you and your party seem to have had.

Cheers.

RC


Hi Ramon,

I had a feeling you'd reply to this! I'm curious, what happened at your last visit?
Three be the things I shall never attain:
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Re: WTN: Lunch at the Intercon's Prince Albert

by R Cabrera » Thu Feb 17, 2011 11:49 am

Jay,

Well, since you asked, I have my personal and, shall I say, an interesting experience at Prince Albert.

The last time I dined there, it was a chaotic Valentine’s Day about 3 years ago (iirc) as there were reported bus and theater bombings in the Makati area during the PM rush hour time. When we arrived, we were told by the maitre’d that due to over-bookings, our previously-assigned table was occupied and that, however, there was last-minute cancellation in their private room and that was where they will seat us. We were from out-of-town and so we weren’t that thrilled about being separated from the main dining room action, but nevertheless tentatively agreed to take the available private room. Their private was more like a corporate board room, with dark panels and was way too big for just 2 couples. The wait staff who filled our water glasses then explained that the room was supposed to be reserved for (then) President GMA and her family who obviously cancelled because of the security and bombing threats. I was kind of concerned, because the last place that I would like to be at during insurgency attacks was to be anywhere near the President, to say the least about occupying the same exact table that she and her party were suppose to be dining on at that same moment. In New York, they're pretty good at killing who they're suppose to kill in steakhouses, and I'd hate to be the "mistaken group" in the following day's headlines in Philippine newspapers.

Although, upon my request and afte quite a wait, they moved us to the main dining room, this was really just the beginning of a memorable and somewhat comical, but not in the most positive way, dining experience I have ever had in Manila. I actually wrote the restaurant a note about our experience, without receiving any acknowledgement, and finally took up on suggestions by local friends who forwarded my note to a food-restaurant writer in a major newspaper and who found it interesting enough to publish and make commentaries in her column.

I’m not sure if my experience was a “one of” kind or, hopefully, things have just gone for the better for the restaurant.
Ramon Cabrera

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