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WTN: Alsatian whites, US West Coast Reds - 2 real gems

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WTN: Alsatian whites, US West Coast Reds - 2 real gems

by David M. Bueker » Sun Feb 13, 2011 11:29 am

Last night I conducted a wine tasting for a group of non wine geeks. I decided to showcase the white wines of Alsace and the reds of the USA west coast. Overall the wines showed extremely well, with a few things being so stunning that they were able to penetrate the veil surrounding my senses.

2007 Trimbach Pinot Blanc
Showed richer than I expected (but I kow nothing about the vintage as of yet). Good balance of bright fruit and a steely backbone. Nice value.

2009 Hugel ‘Gentil’
A favorite of some folks for its showy aromatics (not that I noticed), but there was a bit of a bitter finish. Ok, but nothing more.

2005 Trimbach Pinot Gris Reserve
This has always seemed a bit un-Trimbach to me with a notable sweetness, but it's well balanced with the palate richness. Lots of folks liked this, but a few were put off by its sweetness.

2002 Trimbach Riesling Cuvee Frederic Emile
This was the first stunner of the night. Amazing wine that is showing quite young, but also very open and delicious, with a bright lemony streak that then washes into an avalanche of minerals, only to give way to more back-palate fruit. I'm a huge fan of the '01 version of this wine, but the '02 may be even better.

2004 Albert Boxler Gewurztraminer
One of Laura's favorites of the night, this showed quite sweet and oily. We had some spicy hummus on the appetizer table, and it was a surprisingly delicious match with the Gewurz.

2005 Zind Humbrecht Muscat Grand Cru Goldert Vineyard
Typically aromatic, with flowers and spice as the dominant element (Laura told me about the flowers, I was able to get the spice). There's sweetness here (indice 2), but balanced by the extract and acidity of hte wine. Excellent.

2007 Thread (Santa Barbara County, CA – Grenache/ Syrah blend)
Very forward, with the Grenache showing through. There's a depth to the wine as well from the Syrah. Easy to drink, and a crowd favorite, if not one of hte absolute top wines of the evening.

2008 St. Innocent Pinot Noir Shea Vineyard (Willamette Valley, OR)
Tight, tart and rather unforgiving right now. There's a lot of material, but it did not want to come out to play this night.

2007 Abeja Merlot (Columbia Valley, WA)
In contrast, this gives everything it has in a very easy to drink package. There's no way it would hold my interest for long, but for an easy, plummy, non-geek friendly wine it has all the goods without being too over the top ripe.

1999 Ridge Lytton Springs (Sonoma County, CA – Zinfandel/Petite Sirah/Carignan blend)
Wine of the night by a landslide! This is in a stupendous place right now. It still has oodles of fruit, the oak has (mostly) settled down, and the tannins are smooth. There's a ton of material in the wine, so I am certain it has miles to go, but it would be a shame to miss this phase. Wonderful.

2007 Wind Gap Syrah Castelli-Knight Ranch (Russian River Valley, Sonoma, CA)
Dark, spicy, meaty and not giving up much. It is much more of a piece than it was a year+ ago, but much more time is needed here.

2007 Betz Pere de Famille Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley, CA)
Like the Abeja Merlot, this was showing the cards. More structured for sure than the Merlot, and also more complex. This is another wine that demands a ton of time to show more developed elements. I like the balance. Lots of folks liked this until they found out the price and availability issues.

All in all a very fun evening!
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Re: WTN: Alsatian whites, US West Coast Reds - 2 real gems

by Salil » Sun Feb 13, 2011 11:44 am

Nice tasting. Agree fully on the '02 CFE - I went through a few bottles last year and it was in a tremendous, very accessible phase. Right now trying to keep my hands off what little I have left, notes like that aren't helping my resolve. ;)
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Re: WTN: Alsatian whites, US West Coast Reds - 2 real gems

by Redwinger » Sun Feb 13, 2011 12:33 pm

Glad the 99 Lytton Springs is going strong. I had it last in 2008 and it was simply outstanding....three more in the cellar that I'm in no big hurry to drink, but then again...
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Re: WTN: Alsatian whites, US West Coast Reds - 2 real gems

by Hoke » Sun Feb 13, 2011 12:54 pm

Good tasting, David!

Re the Shea: you're right, there's a lot going on there. Be patient and it will get there. Get some Momtazi Vineyard 2008 if you can: your older self will thank me in a few years.
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Re: WTN: Alsatian whites, US West Coast Reds - 2 real gems

by David M. Bueker » Sun Feb 13, 2011 12:57 pm

Momtazi is already in the cellar!
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Re: WTN: Alsatian whites, US West Coast Reds - 2 real gems

by Hoke » Sun Feb 13, 2011 1:35 pm

David M. Bueker wrote:Momtazi is already in the cellar!


Good on you!

I tasted all the St. Innocents with the winemaker some months ago when they were released. Wonderful, as they were mainly in an open window and showing about as well as could be expected. Momtazi was the only one that adamantly refused to open up much, stubborn little devil that it was, but oh, the promise was there. And the winemaker was effusively proud of it, giving the idea that it might be the best he's done thus far. He may well be right (on the other hand, what the hell does he know?)

Good solid ten years on the Momtazi...if you can wait that long. I wouldn't touch it for five years. It's a fine-grained and tightly woven Pinot, with almost Euro minerality to it. This might be the ESJ of OR Pinot Noirs.
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Re: WTN: Alsatian whites, US West Coast Reds - 2 real gems

by Salil » Sun Feb 13, 2011 10:32 pm

Side, semi-related note on Alsace.

Followed the Acker auction online tonight (and took part in a few bids). Lots of action on many bids - major interest in Germans, Austrians, Rhones, Bordeaux (too much as far as Haut Bailly went :evil: ) - and barely any interest in Alsace. Saw a few lots with some top Alsace bottlings (Weinbach's l'Inedit, Zind's Rangen Riesling, etc) going at remarkably low prices, scored one lot myself where there was barely any interest (and where I'm certain I would have paid a LOT more for any of those wines a few years ago). Trimbach aside, there's really not much interest in Alsace these days - and this is from just about every end of the buying chain here. Consumers, importers, retailers...
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Re: WTN: Alsatian whites, US West Coast Reds - 2 real gems

by Hoke » Mon Feb 14, 2011 12:18 am

Salil wrote:Side, semi-related note on Alsace.

Followed the Acker auction online tonight (and took part in a few bids). Lots of action on many bids - major interest in Germans, Austrians, Rhones, Bordeaux (too much as far as Haut Bailly went :evil: ) - and barely any interest in Alsace. Saw a few lots with some top Alsace bottlings (Weinbach's l'Inedit, Zind's Rangen Riesling, etc) going at remarkably low prices, scored one lot myself where there was barely any interest (and where I'm certain I would have paid a LOT more for any of those wines a few years ago). Trimbach aside, there's really not much interest in Alsace these days - and this is from just about every end of the buying chain here. Consumers, importers, retailers...


Yea, it's a shame that such good wine gets such little interest----on the other hand, we all revel that we can still get such good wine for such a relatively low price.

I've been puzzled by this for so long now...going on 30+ years...trying to figure out why Alsace wines continue to be largely undiscovered/under-apprciated in the grand scheme of things.

But that applies to many Austrians still. And definitely applies to a lot of Trentino/Alto Adige beauties, and even Friuli (excepting the glittering superstars, of course).

The Domaine Mittnacht I had recently was so shiveringly good---and in a Pinot Blanc, which most people just ignore---and still under $20. Just amazing.
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Re: WTN: Alsatian whites, US West Coast Reds - 2 real gems

by David M. Bueker » Mon Feb 14, 2011 8:58 am

A huge portion of the wine drinking world still sees white wine as a throwaway. Unfortunate, but true.

If Trimbach or especially Zind-Humbrecht (it's all about style) made Cabernet at the same quality level as their Rieslings there would not be a bottle available within 10 minutes of release.
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