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WTN: Variety

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Florida Jim

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WTN: Variety

by Florida Jim » Sun Feb 13, 2011 9:43 am

2007 Drouhin, Chablis:
At room temperature, this village wine has a grand cru nose; the palate does not live up to that but it is not disappointing either; a pretty Chablis with lemon oil and seashore scents and flavors. As soon as this got the least little bit cool, it became half the wine. (At room temp.) with grilled chicken and Caesar salad, outstanding. $24, retail. (Room temp. here was 67° F.)

2009 Stéphane Tissot, Arbois VV:
Poulsard at 12.5% alcohol; the first night, this was mediocre; not a bad wine but without character or interest. The second night, it had good character but was mostly about structure. My guess; it requires substantial time in the cellar. The second night, it was nice with cheese which seemed to clean up some of the tannins.

1999 Mt Veeder, Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve:
Smells like good 1990’s Bordeaux, tastes like an older Tuscan blend. An odd, but not unpleasant, showing. Nothing flamboyant or oaky but the fruit is a bit sweet to be convincing.

2007 Edmund Vatan, Sancerre Clos la Néore:
13% alcohol; as with most great wines, a series of paradoxes: complex yet integrated, bright but smooth, flavorful but understated, long yet clean. I get the feeling that the grapes became everything they always wanted to be. Nothing out of place, nothing askew or inflated; just a pure and balanced example of nature and craft in sympathy. With goat cheese and crackers, sublime.

2006 Georges Vigouroux, Cahors Anisto:
Although I do not read French, it appears from the website that this is malbec from Argentina (at least in part). 14% alcohol and about $15, retail. My impression is of both over-ripe and under-ripe fruit in a big tank with oak chips; and I will be the first to say, I may be entirely wrong. But the sour note is there in the nose and to a lesser degree, in the mouth, as though someone wanted to cover the green with new wood, and, the fruit is attenuated in several ways. An unpleasant nose; a forgettable palate.

Best, Jim
Jim Cowan
Cowan Cellars

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