WTN: 1999 Vieux Donjon Chateauneuf du Pape

[David M. Bueker]

Checking out a slightly older wine to see how my senses handle it.

I still pick up an intense sweet smell on the nose which I am now almost certain is an odd manifestation of my perception of alcohol. What is encouraging is that some of the developed elements seem to be peeking through as well. Could that be a bit of leather and warm earth? I think it is! On the palate the wine seems incredibly young, yet in that retronasal phase I do get something that feels like the Southern Rhone. Overall the balance is very good - this is not a heavyweight Donjon, but rather a more old school expression that fans of recent vintage Chateauneuf would consider light/diffuse. I like it very much for the mid-weight expression that is easy to enjoy even at less than full capabilities.

Hi David, I am surprised tht the Donjon seems so young. I have not tasted any of their wine in years but went thru a case of 1999 Pegau by 2009 and all of them seemed very open, drinkable and nearing peak but that peak is probably a long plateau. I wish I had some more now. Maybe the two wineries have different styles, producing wines that mature differently.

[David M. Bueker]

Jim - please take my note with a rather large grain of salt, as I am recovering from a loss of my sense of smell. Everything is a bit odd right now.

One shouldn't mistake a wine being enjoyable early with one that is light and forward.

I haven't gone anywhere near my 99 Donjon, and the bottles I've tasted indicate the best is yet to come.

The 99 Pegau is a whole different kettle of smelt - it is indeed forward and drinsk well right now.

I had a bottle of the 1999 together with the 2001 Vieux Donjon last week, and I liked the 1999 best, which is saying a lot, as the 2001 is no slouch either! The 1999 had much more secondary flavours - the earthy leather notes you described - and I thought was a wonderfully complex wine at its peak (though it should last a while yet). My friend enjoyed the primary flavours and verve of the 2001 more, although he tends to be more of a 'drink 'em young' type than I. Both were outstanding wines! I'm a big fan of Vieux Donjon, and can't help but wonder if the lack of a second, third or fourth (i.e., more expensive) bottling from this producer doesn't directly lead to a better quality of this 'basic' CDP.