Badia a Coltibuono Chianto Classico Riserva 2006 - 22,80€; 14,5% abv
Dark aromas, almost liquorous in its sweetness, with some leather and cherry aromas, too. But despite these aromas it doesn't really seem obviously Chianti or Sangiovese; it seems so ripe that it could be almost anything. Usually such a degree of ripeness is further exacerbated by the use of new wood - which here, thankfully, seems to be either missing or just very deftly done (it does see time in French wood, but I wasn't able to find out the size or age of the wood). The very sweet fruit is thankfully made drier by a fair bit of tannin; the acidity seems a bit low for Chianti. The alcohol is well hidden. It seems like a perfectly nice wine, but its sheer size and power and lack of typicity - all this despite no obvious sings of spoofulation - make this a wine that I won't be buying again.
Alko's Burgundy selection is absurdly small and generally of abysmal quality, but sometimes an over-priced "gem" does become available. At the outrageous price of 50€ we got a Domaine des Lambrays Morey-St.-Denis 2006. I know it is young, but I was really hankering after a Burgundy, and I don't always want to drink Brun's Bourgogne Rouge (which is the one fairly priced and delicious Burgundy we do have). There is a bit of oak showing - IIRC the producer uses about 30% new oak for these "lesser" wines. But the oak does not hide a rather lovely Pinosity: beetroot, earthy/vegetal, the fruit veers more towards dark fruit than red. Rich and ripe but with great acidity and some attractive tannin. A good Burgundy, but sadly terribly over-priced over here, and perhaps a bit more polished and "modern" than I would ideally drink.
(d.) de blanes Muscat de Rivesaltes 2008 was a revelation to me. I haven't usually liked MdeRs as the ones here have always tasted simply of sugar. This, however, had lovely mineral notes in addition to Muscat's grapeyness; it was fully sweet but wonderfully citric and refreshing - not cloying at all. It cut through the richness of various patés brilliantly. I thought it was quite wonderful. Blanes is really making some wonderful stuff!
Travaglini Gattinara 2004 was ok, but perhaps a bit disappointing - partly, I am sure, because of its youth. The aromas started out very nicely with pure and bright Nebbioloness; but the palate seemed a bit clunky and too dense - it had good structure from both tannins and acidity, yet it somehow lacked liveliness. With air, I thought I saw new oak aromas poking through, though I was under the impression that this bottling wouldn't see any.
I also tried a modernist Barolo with a bit of age: Gianni Gagliardi Barolo Riserva 1997. I couldn't find any info on this particular wine, but all other Barolos listed on the producer's website use Barriques and have done so since the late '80s. The wood seems integrated/not obvious. It has aromas of dark fruit and some savoury/earthy aromas. Quite dry on the palate though this year seemed to make so many wines with pronounced sweetness, nice structure though the tannins are still quite prominent.
But my problem with this wine is that it doesn't taste of Nebbiolo. And this is why I find it so annoying when, after complaining of a wine's "modernity", I'm told to open them once they have enough age for the oak to integrate. Oak, in my admittedly limited experience, just doesn't seem to disappear even with age. Though no longer obvious at this stage, it still seems to mask the wine's true character. Is it too presumptuous to say that the oak in a strongly oaked wine doesn't integrate; it just becomes different over time?
Domaine de Montcalmès 2007 - Coteaux du Languedoc; 14% abv; 60% Syrah, 40% Grenache & Mourvèdre; c.33€; label
This certainly wasn't cheap for a Languedoc, but the wine was quite impressive, so perhaps it is justified. At first I was a little apprehensive since the initial smell was so boisterously fruity that there seemed to be nothing else in it. But it didn't take long for a savoury meatiness to appear in the scent: the Syrah became strongly evident. With further time garrigue and green tea aromas appeared - it is delightfully savoury despite the very ripe fruit. But the fruit doesn't become raisiny; it stays fresh and refreshing throughout the evening. Full bodied, but with wonderful acidity to counter the ripeness and sweetness. It is moreish - and I don't often say this about Southern wines, especially from such opulent years.
What a fun find to have such a wine in Alko where the Southern France selection is almost entirely made up of big and boring brands.
