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WTN: Japan vs. Philippines Panic tasting

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Jay Labrador

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WTN: Japan vs. Philippines Panic tasting

by Jay Labrador » Mon Feb 07, 2011 9:22 am

With Keiichi back in town together with Chef Hiro and assistants to cook for a special International Wine and Food Society Kaiseki dinner, we decided a few weeks back that we would definitely like to do what the Japanese call a "Panic" tasting while they were here. Just a short explanation, a Panic tasting is blind tasting where you serve wines that you think the other tasters won't be able to guess.

The group was divided into 2 teams - Team Japan plus Vince (who is back from Canada) and Richard (who is Swiss); and Team Philippines with consisting of The Usual Suspects. Keiichi would captain Team Japan while I was prevailed upon to captain Team Philippines. One point would be awarded for a correct guess of region and one point would be awarded for a correct guess of vintage. If the guess is France, one must also specify if it is from Bordeaux (left or right bank), Burgundy, Alsace, Rhone or other France. For vintage, between the year 2000 and present, one must get the exact year. From 1990 to 1999, the guess must be within one year of the vintage. If older than 1990, within 2 years of vintage.

I was one of the last to arrive but the drinking had already started with a Dominus 1996. Slightly faded on the rim with a bit of browning but certainly not lacking in flavor. Ripe and smooth but still firm with tannins on the finish. A good way to start.

We started with a red but moved on to a white. Arnie's SQN The Petition 2005. Deep yellow, Ripe, touch of wood and wood spices (cinammon, nutmeg). I was expecting an oaky mess but this was surprisingly lean and quite easy to drink. Long finish. Very good. 48% Chardonnay, 28% Viognier, 24% Rousanne. I believe both Arnie and Richard guessed there was a significant Rhone grape component here.

Two more reds were opened before getting to the Panic Tasting proper. First was a Pio Cesare Barolo Ornato 1998. I didn't get much of this but I did detect sour cherry and some leathery notes. Not quite ready as there was still a significant amount of tannin. Lastly, we had an Alphonse Mellot Sancerre La Moussiere 2007. Tannic, very dry and sour. Not to my taste.

We finally got the blind tasting underway after the Sancerre.

Team Japan Wine A - Smells like sherry but doesn't look like it. Yellowish cast to this wine. Very dry, Rubbery component, acidic finish. I had a suspicion that this was Vin Jaune, something I had read about but never encountered. Our team narrowed it down to France or Spain but I called out France. Vintage was a wild guess, 2001. We got the region right but not the vintge. Chateau Chalon 1998. I read up on it when I got home and found out Ch. Chalon is actually the AC, not the producer, so unfortunately I was unable to note the maker of this wine. The grape is Savagnin. One point for Team Philippines.

Team Philippines Wine B - After a short conference and taste, we decided to serve Jojo's Torbreck Juveniles 2000 - Funky nose. Ripe and sweet. Sweaty. Already soft. Some might say this is past peak but I thought it was perfect and very good. Team Japan guessed US 1997. No points for Team Japan.

Team Japan Wine C - Very dark, smooth, sweet. A little mint after some air. Jojo did not hesitate at all "Dominus" he said. All of us pegged it as US although I did say that I had doubts as to whether they would serve something so obvious. Not being able to come up with any other alternatives, we decided on US. For vintage, the consensus was it was between 1992 to 1997. We settled on 1994. Jojo nailed the wine. Dominus 1989. Another point for Team Philippines.

Team Philippines Wine D - We had a choice to serve either a Muller-Catoir Rieslaner or a Beaujolais. Jojo pointed out they would probable get Germany right away so we served my Coudert Fleurie Clos de la Roilette Cuvee Tardive 2007. Very pale. Candy-like nose. Ripe strawberry and raspberry with a touch of underlying earthiness. Juicy, charming wine. Vince got it immediately, guessing Beaujolais, which Richard seconded. They quickly followed with a guess on the year. "2007" said Keiichi. Two points for Team Japan!

We decided to call it a tie but with a rematch to take place, hopefully at Hiro's restaurant at Mount Fuji.

Although the contest was over, there was one more wine tasted blind, courtesy of Team Japan. Bright, light copper color. Sweet nose, burnt sugar, very smooth, seamless, lean. The color was old but on the palate, the wine was very fresh. Our guesses were all over the place. I said possibly very old Sauternes but the flavor did not match. Maybe a Muscat? Richard said possibly very old Beaumes de Venise. How about old Muscat SGN, I said. Arnie said Greek or maybe Vin Santo. Someone suggested Tokaji but I didn't think the acidity was that strong. A few more sips reveal richness coming forth and a very long finish. Sweet but not at all cloying. Very easy to drink. After we ran out of guesses, it was revealed as Chateau Caillou Creme de Tete Barsac 1943. Needless to say, we were very honored that Team Japan brought such a wine for us to taste.

Thanks very much to Team Japan for a great tasting and looking forward to the next one!
Three be the things I shall never attain:
Envy, content, and sufficient champagne.

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