WTN: Mature "modern" Barolo and trad.Savennières+St.Amour

Barolo Bric del Fiasc 1995 – Paolo Scavino – Alc.14%. I believe that Scavino is considered a modernist and that 1995 is rated only a middling vintage in Piedmont but in its sixteenth year I found this had become very good. It was somewhat slow to unveil its aromas but then authentic Barolo scents of violet, old rose, tar and minerals came up. Looking for “modernity”, there was perhaps a slightly greater roundness of fruit than often but no detectable (for me) taste of new wood; body was medium/full, texture was pleasantly mat and there was good depth, tannic structure and length. My only slight complaint was a touch of pastiness on the finish but the overall effect was classy and satisfying; 16.5/20++.

Savennières Cuvée Spéciale 1995 – Château d’Epiré – Alc.13%. This was about the best so far from a purchase of about 3 dozen from this estate, mainly 95s and 96s; most of the bottles were inexpressive or oxidised but three or four opened in the last three years have been better; perhaps I was too impatient. Like the Barolo above, the aromas took time to open up and the wine was better at a couple of degrees up on cellar temperature (11-12°C). Then there developed of complex of quince, wax, acacia and minerals. The palate was medium/full, dry, quite round with some residual primary fruit, typical Loire minerality, a touch of burnished richness and enough smooth acidity for freshness and balance (the 96s show crisper acidity). I am beginning to congratulate myself on not having sold off on Ebay and hope that the remaining bottles will as good as this; 16.5/20+.

Saint-Amour Domaine des Pierre 2009- Domaine Georges Trichard – Alc.13% from an unfamiliar producer was just what I look for in young Beaujolais, fresh, round and fruity, tangy with lively acidity and enough grip to retain interest; 16/20.

Barolo Bric del Fiasc 1995 – Paolo Scavino – Alc.14%. I believe that Scavino is considered a modernist and that 1995 is rated only a middling vintage in Piedmont but in its sixteenth year I found this had become very good.

I have been very pleased with the "modern" Barolo that I've had from the 1995 vintage. Over the last few years, I drank good '95s by Sandrone, Aldo Conterno, and Scavino.

Cellar Tracker notes seem to indicate that some find the Epire Speciales tend to drink pretty well on release and thereafter for about a decade. But there's enough disagreement to make me think there is either a lot of bottle variation or the tasters simply are looking for different things in Savennieres. I see the two guys who wrote TNs on the 1995 weren't impressed, but then I wouldn't put a lot of faith in individual Sanevennieres notes. I'm beginning to wonder if every Savennieres bottle is different, although I haven't found that to be the case in my own cellar.

Savennières Cuvée Spéciale 1995 – Château d’Epiré – Alc.13%. This was about the best so far from a purchase of about 3 dozen from this estate, mainly 95s and 96s; most of the bottles were inexpressive or oxidised but three or four opened in the last three years have been better; perhaps I was too impatient. Like the Barolo above, the aromas took time to open up and the wine was better at a couple of degrees up on cellar temperature (11-12°C). Then there developed of complex of quince, wax, acacia and minerals. The palate was medium/full, dry, quite round with some residual primary fruit, typical Loire minerality, a touch of burnished richness and enough smooth acidity for freshness and balance (the 96s show crisper acidity). I am beginning to congratulate myself on not having sold off on Ebay and hope that the remaining bottles will as good as this; 16.5/20+..

Sounds like fun. Aged Savennieres can be quite the unique pleasure.

Cellar Tracker notes seem to indicate that some find the Epire Speciales tend to drink pretty well on release and thereafter for about a decade. But there's enough disagreement to make me think there is either a lot of bottle variation or the tasters simply are looking for different things in Savennieres. I see the two guys who wrote TNs on the 1995 weren't impressed, but then I wouldn't put a lot of faith in individual Sanevennieres notes. I'm beginning to wonder if every Savennieres bottle is different, although I haven't found that to be the case in my own cellar.

Clint, there has been a huge amount of bottle variation in these 3 dozen from Epiré. The bottles of Cuvée Spéciale have been less bad in that respect than the basic. In particular there have been a lot of oxidised bottles.

There is a theory around that some white wines go into and out of oxidative periods as they age; Savennières and white Hermitage are particularly mentioned and I seem to recall having read an article by Clive Coates claiming the same for oxidised Burgs. This theory is, of course, absolutely unprovable because, once opened, an oxidised bottle cannot be resealed to see if it comes out of oxidation down the track.

I am interested in the CT contention that the Epiré CS drink well on release and then for a decade. Mine went into a prolonged closed period and only started opening up about three or four years ago. The basics were never very interesting even the unoxidised bottles.