The “birthday boys” (four guys who gather on or near our respective birthdays and treat the fellow turning older) gathered Sunday night at Santé, in the Sonoma Mission Inn for some Michelin one star food and a few bottles brought from our cellars. The food and service were outstanding, the room was lovely and the wines were, at least, tolerable:
N/V Cedric Bouchard, Champagne La Parcelle:
As good a bubbly as I have ever had; very tiny bubbles but plenty of them, incredible depth to the flavors and nose and a fine finish. The wine of the night for me and a true ‘life list’ bottle. Stunning!
2007 Three Sticks, Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast:
This carried its 14.7% alcohol better than I expected and while I thought the new wood intruded, it was still a fine-grained, aromatic pinot. Appealing and stood well with the food.
2006 Martinelli, Pinot Noir Zio Tony Ranch:
15.6% alcohol; raisin smells and flavors, huge VA, intrusive wood and alcohol; not my cup of vino.
2006 Chat. Beaucastel, CdP:
Closed, no brett and very little nose or palate as yet; needs considerable time and to be served when there is no 800 pound gorilla in the room. Nice, nonetheless and good accompaniment to saddle of venison.
Another four gathered at Bistro M in Windsor, CA, to catch-up on the doings in wine country, discuss and taste some wines and share a meal. I am sure my wife would have been ‘geeked’ to death by our wine-centric conversation but it was a learning experience. But perhaps most interesting (to me) was one conversation that turned to politics and financial regulation. I should say that it is my practice to leave the table when such things are discussed. In this instance I stayed and listened while two of our party disagreed – strenuously. Who’d have thought, right? But they did it with such respect for each other; never giving in on their respective positions but never straying into personality. It was, considering current events, heartening.
And the wines were not your everyday fare:
1993 Barthod, Chambolle-Musigny Les Fuees:
Firm at its core but lacy around the edges; deft balance, medium weight, good complexity and length. Opened somewhat over the evening. Not a great wine, but a very good one and likely not at peak. With steak tartar, excellent.
1996 Chatêau Lynch Bages:
Light brett but no so that the sweetness of the fruit is defeated. Quite complex and interesting both on the nose and palate, well –resolved but not past prime, lovely fruit and cigar box stuff going on and all silk in the mouth. With mac and cheese, extraordinary.
1990 Sorrel, Hermitage Le Greal:
Insecticide nose – not overwhelming but distracting, also some fruit and violets; lovely in the mouth though, with flavors of iron, blood and dusty black plums – slightly more savory than fruity; focused at mid-palate but broadening on the finish. Again, with mac and cheese, excellent.
Another very fine evening with friends at the Fig Café in Glen Ellen. I really love this place; informal and casual yet still white table cloth; solid bistro type food, much of it comfort style; servers I know and like, reasonable prices and no corkage. I don’t eat here often enough . . . but I try.
2008 Quinto do Feital, Vinho Verde Dorado Alvarinho Superior:
13% alcohol; spends one year on the lees and two in tank before bottling, from 70 year old vines, organically farmed, low sulphur not fizzy like most Vinho Verde; medium yellow and brilliant; apples, leesy, hints of butterscotch, smoke and stones; dense and very lightly oxidative; bruised apples, resin, minerals and a grippy/leesy feel; long, clean, and unique. Nice as a starter and excellent with what appears to be a Spanish style paella with chicken instead of seafood.
1968 Inglenook, Charbono:
From Justin’s cellar and a very kind bring in honor of the happy couple; rock solid cork with almost no stain above the end, decanted off some sediment, almost purple color, fresh and young on both the nose and palate and while it does not fall off over several hours, it does soften some. On several occasions I think that it is impossible for this to be 43 years old but who counterfeits domestic charbono?!
It’s rich, bright, shows very young, has considerable tannin but so much fruit it can hide the grip, not especially complex but a sort of tricky depth that, from time-to-time, releases different flavors and smells.
A remarkable wine on longevity alone.
1998 and 1999 Dehlinger, Pinot Noir, Goldridge Vnyd.:
Quite similar at first but, over time, the ’98 slides off into aged, forest floor tones and the ’99 pumps out a classic Russian River cherry experience. By the end of the evening, the ’98 is faltering and the ’99 is just getting started. Both are sound, of interest and good accompaniment to the chicken dish.
Best, Jim