The last ten days or so have been good to me in the performance of bottles opened.
There were two Chiantis to accompany osso bucco. Chianti Classico 2005 – Fèlsina Beradenga – Alc. 13% - was its usual forward self (for Fèlsina) showing nice red fruit, medium/full body, tangy acidity and robust structure; 16/20. There was naturally a strong family resemblance in Chianti Classico 2001 – Fèlsina Beradenga – Alc. 13.5% - ; indeed it is hard to describe the differences and I guess that some of my guests did not notice any. The weight and shape of the wine were almost identical but there was a touch less freshness but this was more than compensated slightly greater depth and complexity, hints of old leather, from a noble evolution; 16/20++.
Château Poujeaux cru bourgeois Moulis-en-Médoc 1996 – Jean Theil – Alc.12.5%, Cabernet Sauvignon 50%, Merlot 40%. I have read a lot of TNs of this wine where the words “lean” and “acidic” are present, so I am glad to report that, for me, neither descriptors apply; indeed consumed the day after the Fèlsinas with the remains of the osso bucco, it was clearly superior. There were generous claret aromas of plum, black currant, earthy minerals with a typically fresh (Napa lovers might say “green”) edge. The palate was full/medium, fresh, mouth-filling with a round fleshy underlay, mature claret’s understated sweetness of fruit offset by lively and tangy but non-astringent acidity and supported by firm but well covered tannic structure towards the decently long finish. This is, for me, a model bourgeois claret and a good example to many 3rd to 5th grands crus; 17/20.
(There are many reports that Poujeaux no longer performs at this level. 2001 is the most recent vintage which I have opened and I find it elegant but lacking the stuffing of this one and several other vintages from the 80s and 90s.)
Savennières Château de Chamboureau Cuvée de l’Avant 2000 from Chenin blanc. The previous bottle was unaccountably lean and mean but this one was close to the form of earlier bottles. The aromas on the nose were subdued but showed signs of typical quince, apple and minerals. The palate was quite full and rich if a touch dark and it took Touraine goat cheeses to perform their usual miracle with Loire chenin in bringing out and focussing all the subtleties of the flavour palette and in seeming to brighten and lengthen the wine; 16/20++.
Saint-Joseph Le Paradis Saint Pierre 1995 – Pierre Coursodon – Alc.12.8%, 100% Syrah. I bought a half-dozen of this wine untasted on the strength of a ***** rating in La Revue du Vin de France when young. What a mistake! Until the bottle previous to this, they have been tightly acidic and tannic. This bottle and the previous opened last year still looked and tasted quite young but were at last beginning to open up. The aromas showed red fruit (attractive sour cherry) and mineral; the best feature of the palate was very good length, the tannins were firm and acidity lively but both tamed compared with the earlier bottles; aromas and fruit were now showing quite well but were somewhat one dimensional and the mouth-feel was somewhat mat. Very little change compared with last year and I still doubt if it will now improve much. Not a ***** wine but now quite enjoyable 15/20+.
Rioja Señorío de P. Peciña Reserva 1999 – Bodegas Hnos. Peciña – Alc. 13.5% - (€14)
After a second bottle not quite as velvety as the first, this one was back to perhaps even better form than the first. Once again I was impressed by the wine’s harmony, velvety feel, linear shape on the palate with a gently increasing crescendo towards the finish followed a fading but quite long fragrance. Oak (none new here, I believe) was beautifully managed, its use being suggested rather than tasted except for an almost imperceptible whiff of vanilla. Finally the wine passed the moreish test; Germaine’s diet only allowed her one glass but, in spite of all the warnings we hear from the guardians of public health, I could not keep my hands off the bottle until it was finished; 17/20.
Côtes du Rhône Coudoulet de Beaucastel 1998 – Pierre Perrin – Alc. 13.5%. I liked this much more than the darkly brooding big brother CndP 98 opened on New Year’s Day. It was less full bodied (medium+), brighter and more harmonious in character with some mature red fruit combined with herbs and touches of leather and tar; 16.5/20.
Montlouis-sur-Loire Pétillant Triple Zéro – Domaine de la Taille aux Loups, Jacky Blot – Alc.12.5% - (€16), made from old Chenin blanc grapes with no dosage. This confirms my impression from a tasting. The nose was attractive with notes of creamy white fruit and minerals and the palate showed a gentle prickle and was crisply refreshing without aggressiveness, elegant and very mineral and biscuity with a certain density. Some lesser Loire bubblies have a rather green coarseness but there was none of that here. Fine 16/20+.
Domaine de Courteillac Bordeaux Supérieur 2008 – Dominique Meneret, Ruch – Alc.13.5%- (€10), from Merlot 70%, CabFranc 10%, CabSauv 20%. This wine, a good Saint-Émilion ringer in most years, is a QPR stand-by from a nearby serious wine merchant. This 2008 is remarkably forward in its third year and fresher than the richer 2006 was about a year ago. Quite full bodied, round and juicy with a velvety feel smooth/lively acidity, good grip, decent tannic structure and avoiding the jamminess which is the besetting sin of a lot of “modern” right bank Bordeaux; 15.5/20+++QPR!
. I bought vintages from 95 through to 2001 for prices between €15 and €19 during the Foires aux Vins. (At those times the $ was much stronger than now.)