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WTN: Volnay

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Rahsaan

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WTN: Volnay

by Rahsaan » Sun Jan 23, 2011 11:40 pm

1995 d’Angerville Volnay
A rough hard wine with plenty of blocky fruit remaining. So perhaps it needs more age to come into its own? I don’t know, the slight oxidized and non-descript elements to the fruit make me wonder. But then again who knows how it’s been stored. And of course bottle variation. Regardless, I thought this might be interesting. Worth a shot.

2006 d’Angerville Volnay Premier Cru
A much safer play. No evidence of the rot that some folks have found in 2006 d’Angerville. Or at least I couldn’t find it. I did find plenty of suave polished and finely knit fruit. Very nice. With air it goes off in different directions. At times seeming clearer and crunchier, at times seeming tighter and tannic. All things considered, this was a very nice wine for my Modest Burgundy Palate.

2006 Lafarge Volnay Vendanges Selectionnées
Two recent bottles of this were very similar. They both took a while (several hours) to hit their stride, but when they did they offered delightful crystal clear bright red Burgundy crunch. At times it flirts with getting darker and more tannic, and I’m sure it probably doesn’t make too much sense to be drinking more of these now. But I had fun, especially with food.

2002 Antonin Guyon Volnay Clos des Chênes
Fragrant sweet spicy and broad. Tannic with air. Not offensive, but doesn’t turn me on either. Which may be expected, as from what I can tell nobody has ever accused these folks of making grand wine. I do however hope that it will age into something more interesting.

2009 Fanny Sabre Volnay
I was curious to try her wines because they are new and well-priced. There is some carbonic maceration on this but it didn’t really seem evident to me. (Not that I’m an expert or anything). I had two bottles in the past couple of weeks and liked one a lot more than the other. The good one was supple and juicy yet herbal and with mineral clarity. It even hinted like it might move towards silk. The less-good bottle was more tannic and burly. I may try again. But I may not. So much wine so little time!
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David M. Bueker

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Re: WTN: Volnay

by David M. Bueker » Mon Jan 24, 2011 8:07 am

Nice set of notes. Alas that the prices for Lafarge have gotten out of hand.
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Dale Williams

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Re: WTN: Volnay

by Dale Williams » Mon Jan 24, 2011 4:53 pm

Indeed, Lafarge seems to have gone up more than even Burgundy in general.
Interesting re the Sabre and carbonic maceration. I have the Bourgogne but haven't tried (liked the PTG)
I liked the 95 Angerville generic 1er, but don't remember trying the village
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Rahsaan

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Re: WTN: Volnay

by Rahsaan » Mon Jan 24, 2011 6:05 pm

Dale Williams wrote:Interesting re the Sabre and carbonic maceration


It's semi-carbonic. Apparently she was greatly influenced by Philippe Pacalet who made her family's wines after her father died. Before that the Sabre wines were conventional but then Fanny got inspired and went in a different direction when she took over. As always, a good write up on wineterroirs:

http://www.wineterroirs.com/2010/01/fanny_sabre.html

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