(Mostly) Bordeaux 1983s at La Fonda del Sol, NYC
01/15/2011
Mike organized and assembled a small group of 6 to drink and exchange views on some ‘83s at La Fonda del Sol. Both food and wine service were very good and the modern Spanish food was above average, with the exception of the overly salty rice in the Paella dish. We requested for, and were accorded, family-style dining with our ordered roasted leg-of-lamb, the braised short-ribs and the above-mentioned Paella for our entrees. We started with shared tapas plates of Spanish cold cuts and individual appetizers, including my always-reliable “go to” grilled octopus with chickpeas.
White wines:
NV Cedric Bouchard Inflorescence La Parcelle Brut Blanc de Noirs
Thanks to Chris who came in from Maryland and brought this bottle. The vintage is not apparent anywhere on the label, but Chris said that as per merchant, this was the 2001 vintage. This was quite a champagne with some green, herby and earthy bouquet around a flavor that was fresh, lemony, with plenty of sourdough bread notes. It was rich, quite a mouthful and as rustic a champagne (imho) as it can get. Very good length. I wasn’t impressed with it at first, but over time it really grew on me. B+
2001 Marc Colin “La Garennes” Puligny-Montrachet, Burgundy
Smelled of old wood and slight fresh-baked confection. My first sip told me that the bottle may have seen its better days. There were plenty of soft fruit, but lacks acidity nor the tight but supple structure of a good P-M. Still has just enough complexity to make it drinkable, but definitely a bottle not in its prime. B-
NV Schramsberg Mirabelle Brut Rose, California
In-your-face bouquet of fruit and wood. Toasty, but easy drinking with fruit being more forward, with less complexity, and less elegant, when compared to the Cedric Bouchard. B-
Red wines:
1983 Ch. Le Gay, Pomerol
Hearbacious and leathery nose. Some green, herbs and spicy harshness on the palate. Drying and thinning, and more harsh mouth-feel, with air time. B-
1983 Ch. Lynch-Bages, Pauillac
Slight off-putting barnyard sulfur nose amidst identifiable old Bordeaux nose. A basic old/mature Bordeaux that didn’t generate much interest on me in terms of its character or taste. B-
1983 Ch. Pichon-Lalande, Pauillac
Definite Pauillac bouquet featuring leather and cigar. This was silky and soft, as it showed it’s lean but ripe black fruit, and was not unpredictable. A solid mature Bordeaux that slightly dried out towards the end of the meal. B/B+
1983 Ch. Trotanoy, Pomerol
Classic nose that was very appealing with wet leaves and leather. High and bright acidity, lean fruit, well balanced, muscular, medium-bodied claret. A rustic Pomerol that I think has room to further improve with cellar time. My WOTN among the reds. B+
1983 Ch. Talbot, Saint-Julien
An old-style claret that had high acidity and still quite tannic. A throwback Left Bank Bordeaux, quite reminiscent of the very good 1986 Talbot. Will appeal to those who like the true classic-style. B+
1983 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Villero, Piedmont
Thanks to Greg for adding this to the mix as it provided a very nice contrast to the claret. Lighter and more transparent than any of the Bordeaux, but this bottle tasted young and fresh. High Barolo acidity, resolved tannin, layers of cherries and other ripe red berries.
I have to admit that this was the food-friendliest among the wines tonight. B+
Dessert
1983 Ch. Rieussec, Sauternes
Dark amber color. Nose and taste included honeyed lime, cooked brown sugar, and crème brulee. Tasty and a dessert in itself. B/B+
