Vin de Pays des Cevennes 1995 – Domaine de Baruel – Alc. 13%, made from Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, roughly 50/50. I wrote enthusiastically about this wine about 18 months and, on the basis of this latest bottle, wonder whether there was bottle variation, palate inconsistency or a bit of both because this bottle seemed much less interesting than my description of the last. It was not bad in a muted Bordeaux left-bank style (I could not detect Syrah influence this time). Medium weight, still fresh, rather lean and understated but with some decent red fruit and minerals, I would have taken it for a middle ranking cru bourgeois of a vintage younger than 1995; 15/20++.
Chianti Classico Vigna del Sorbo 2000 – Fontodi – Alc. 14% tends to be despised by some Chianti purists because of Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend but I love it. This 2000 was exceptional rich and ripe for Chianti with medium/full body and complexity with rich red fruit and English fruit cake touches. It was less tangy and smoother in acidity and structure than in most years but had enough of all to avoid flabbiness and remain a fine wine; 17/20.
Côtes du Roussillon Villages Vieilles Vignes Tautavel 2004 – Domaine Gardiès – Alc. 14%, made from 70 % grenache noir and old Carignan of 60 - 80 years age vinified together, 20% Syrah and 10% Mourvèdre. I enjoyed this more than a bottle last October. The quite full body and dense fruit with sweet plum elements together with lively bright acidity and decent tannic structure were still there but the fruit seemed juicier and I caught stimulating touches of pepper and herbs which I did not note before. The highly seasoned pairing, penne alla arrabiata, may have helped. A very enjoyable wine from Roussillon; 16/20.
Cairanne Côtes du Rhône Villages Haut Coustias 2000 - Domaine de l’Oratoire Saint-Martin (F&F.Alary) - Alc. 13.5% - (EUR 17 for 2008 vintage) - a blend of 60% Mourvèdre, 20% Grenache and 20% Syrah 65 year old vines. This was less good than my fond memory (supported by TN) of the 1998. It was fuller, fruitier in a primary way and more jammy but showed less of the complexity of fine fruit nuances as well less of the tar and herbal notes; it was as if Grenache were more prominent in the 2000 blend. There was a metallic slight streak towards the finish which suggests that it may be past its best; 15.5/20.