Excerpted from Alsace through the wines of Leon Beyer, French Wine ExaminerHere are three current offerings from Lèon Beyer:
(Note: If you think white wines are meant only to be consumed young---think again. These Beyer wines are normally intended to carry age, and begin to open and show stunning complexities of flavor when they are five to ten years old…or older.)Lèon Beyer Riesling Les Ecaillers, 2004 --composed of grapes sourced from the Grand Cru Pfersigberg of Leon Beyer in Eguisheim, Les Ecaillers is in the precise tradition of the bone dry wines of Alsace, with luscious mouthwatering lime citrus; briny oyster shells; plump, fat juicy tart apples; stony minerality; and a bit of stone fruit---apricot and peach---to round it out. In the mouth it has a full, silky rich body, solid heft, and a firm acidic structure. This wine should age for years, slowly developing whiffs of cider, honey, smoke and petrol.
The name itself, Les Ecaillers, may give an indication of how this wine is best consumed. It refers to shelling oysters or scaling fish; this Ecaillers Riesling would pair magnificently with either fresh-shucked oysters or grilled trout.
Lèon Beyer Gewurztraminer Classique, 2007 ---it’s pungent and spicy and almost oily in texture---in other words, just what it purports to be: a classic style of Alsace Gewurztraminer. Beyer’s Gewurztraminer is actually fairly restrained, compared to some; but it has the classic notes of litchi and preserved spice-jar fruits and sturdy structure that all say “Alsace”. Being Alsatian, it has a bit more acidity than some, and this prevents it from being in any way flabby or dull; instead it is a bright, lively, engaging wine with an exotic aromatic signature: a heady combination of fruit, flowers and spice all in one glass!
Lèon Beyer Pinot Gris Classique, 2007 ---Pinot Gris is that vexing grape that can---and does---produce some of the most bland, vague, featureless and boring white wines made on the planet. But in Alsace perhaps more than anywhere else, Pinot Gris becomes outstanding. Pinot Gris from Alsace is in a class by itself (though Austrians and select Northern Italians might argue the subject convincingly).
Marked by a slightly deeper golden hue than most, Alsatian Pinot Gris has a touch of spiciness in a nod to Gewurztraminer, but significantly more acidity. This Beyer is bright, bone dry and firm, with flowers and tropical fruit galore, but braced stoutly with minerally acidity, and finishing with a hint of…woodsmoke! Not in the least bit flabby or dull, this Pinot Gris is young and sturdy now, and should grow into a polished, complex wine of surprising depth---but probably won’t because it is so tempting to drink right now.
Full article here (with pics and video): | Examiner.com
http://www.examiner.com/french-wine-in-national/explore-alsace-through-the-wines-of-leon-beyer#ixzz1BFtNEQ7B