Vouvray sec Clos de la Bretonnière 2008 – Domaine de la Taille aux Loups, Jacky Blot – Alc.13%.
Some Vouvray producers, e.g. Philippe Foreau, admit that their wines shut down after about their second winter, only to open up to greater glory several years later. I don’t know whether Jacky Blot’s wines develop along the same lines (Chidaine claims that his do not) but I find it hard to believe that this Vouvray will ever be better than it was last night.
C: Quite pale yellow.
N: Brightly expressive with fine notes of quince, apple, pear, minerals and a dab of dry honey.
P: Very dry, brightly focussed, medium/light bodied, full of stylish nerve and tension with enough underlying roundness (gras) to support its vibrant fruit and aromas, grainy minerals, crisp acidity and firm finish. There was just a hint of rawness on the finish which will surely disappear with evolution, but so will some of the vibrancy and tension which makes me unsure whether that evolution will be positive overall; 17/20 now.