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WTN: Slovenian and Jura wines at 10 Bells

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Dale Williams

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WTN: Slovenian and Jura wines at 10 Bells

by Dale Williams » Mon Jan 10, 2011 10:07 am

Oswaldo and Marcia were in town, and we arranged to meet them at Ten Bells on the Lower East Side. Betsy had a ziker to attend, so I dropped her, visited my favorite wine store (aka Chambers), did a couple of errands, picked her up and headed to Broome St. We saw Oswaldo and Marcia on the block, and eventually found correct door. It seemed a bit loud, but we ended up in the pleasant and quieter backroom.

Food was pretty good for a winebar. Standout for me was the angulas (baby eels) over arugula, we also enjoyed white asparaugus, duck breast salad, pulled pork sandwich, ham. Betsy was taking Advil for back so just sipped, the rest of us got a glass of white each and split a bottle of red.

My opener was a 2008  "Movia "Quattro Mani." Weird and funky nose (Oswaldo said this was Tocai). Citrus, musky floral tones (like walking into a greenhouse of tropical plants), anise, and something strange that I can't put my finger on. Surprisingly, a bit dilute and dull on palate. But as it warms palate fills out, and the strange/chemical edge (dare I say it reminded me of urinal deodorizer!) faded. A wine way more interesting than pleasant at first, turned into a nice quaff (interesting but not weird). B

The 2007 Puffeney Poulsard (Arbois) was a bit reticent at first, but I ended up quite liking. Pale color, a little funky on the nose at first, but with time in flask it seemed more mainstream. Sweet strawberries and cherry, some orange zest. Good but not extreme acidity, no percievable tannins, a little light for the duck but versatile and foodfriendly. B+
 
Of course, seeing Oswaldo and Marcia was the highlight, I'd have been happy to drink Marquis Phillips and eat Whoppers to see them (ok, maybe I wouldn't have been happy).

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency. 
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Re: WTN: Slovenian and Jura wines at 10 Bells

by Salil » Mon Jan 10, 2011 10:34 am

Dale Williams wrote:Of course, seeing Oswaldo and Marcia was the highlight, I'd have been happy to drink Marquis Phillips and eat Whoppers to see them (ok, maybe I wouldn't have been happy).

Happy, I dunno about - but probably entertained by Oswaldo's reaction to a Sparky wine. :)
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Florida Jim

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Re: WTN: Slovenian and Jura wines at 10 Bells

by Florida Jim » Mon Jan 10, 2011 11:22 am

Dale,
It strikes me that, in notes about these odd Slovanian wines, many of which are skin-fermented, that most tasters recognize very unusual aromas and flavors but are not put-off by them. Or perhaps, they are somewhat put-off but seldom rush to judgment and are rewarded, after the wine opens, for their patience.
Making such wines, I am heartened by this, as I feel they need some air to show their best and virtually every one that I have tried, did get better with air.
So, it seems that people who really like wine enjoy variety and, when faced with something they haven't experienced before, actually give it a chance.
Dare I say, people who really like wine, want to like wine?
Best, Jim
Jim Cowan
Cowan Cellars
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Re: WTN: Slovenian and Jura wines at 10 Bells

by Joe Moryl » Mon Jan 10, 2011 1:18 pm

I didn't take any notes, but your description of the Quattro Mani was spot on, even though I tasted the wine several months ago (also at Ten Bells). Why didn'd I think to use urinal cakes as a descriptor? I'd go to Ten Bells more frequently but they seem to have the same (or similar) wines on their by-the-glass list for months at at time. Oh, and one can run up a nice tab but they don't take cards.
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Re: WTN: Slovenian and Jura wines at 10 Bells

by Rahsaan » Mon Jan 10, 2011 1:56 pm

Joe Moryl wrote:Why didn'd I think to use urinal cakes as a descriptor?


Maybe you were sitting further away from the bathroom.
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Dale Williams

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Re: WTN: Slovenian and Jura wines at 10 Bells

by Dale Williams » Mon Jan 10, 2011 1:59 pm

Salil, that's cause you know the new Oswaldo, I knew him when he loved a bit of oak! :)

Jim, I strive to find something I like - though even easy graders don't always succeed. But I think these wines would do terribly in a big lineup of pop and pours (at least for me).

Joe Moryl wrote: they don't take cards.


So they claim (and it says on bill). But guys at table next to us were going to leave to "go get cash" and waiter said well, we actually do take cards (trying to prevent a "dine and dash" I guess).
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Oswaldo Costa

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Re: WTN: Slovenian and Jura wines at 10 Bells

by Oswaldo Costa » Mon Jan 10, 2011 11:15 pm

Dale Williams wrote:Salil, that's cause you know the new Oswaldo, I knew him when he loved a bit of oak! :)


Slanderer! There was definitely a time when I thought a dollop of judicious oak was a perfectly acceptable flavor in Bordeaux and white Burgundy, but loved is a bit calumnious. But, really, Dale can say anything he wants, being the Mephistopheles who laid the original bait for what would eventually become the flaming pits of geekdom. I didn't take notes in front of the massa, but had a Cour-Cheverny from Hervé Villemade that was charmingly battery acid and Marcia had a Cour-Cheverny from somebody that was also quite enticing. I thought service and comfort at Ten Bells left something to be desired and the small wine glasses were far from ideal, but was too happy to be facing Dale and Betsy to think of much else.
"I went on a rigorous diet that eliminated alcohol, fat and sugar. In two weeks, I lost 14 days." Tim Maia, Brazilian singer-songwriter.
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Dale Williams

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Re: WTN: Slovenian and Jura wines at 10 Bells

by Dale Williams » Tue Jan 11, 2011 9:50 am

I agree that the service was spotty, they seemed understaffed, and that was exacerbated by our being in back room. As to comfort, the lack of regular chairs (all benches or barstools) just pointed out that their target audience is younger than us! :)

Safe travels, best to Marcia.
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Re: WTN: Slovenian and Jura wines at 10 Bells

by Mark S » Wed Jan 12, 2011 11:47 pm

Urinal cakes...<snicker>... :P

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