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WTN: Epiphany w great Ste.Hune, fine Vacqueyras & Rivesaltes

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Tim York

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WTN: Epiphany w great Ste.Hune, fine Vacqueyras & Rivesaltes

by Tim York » Sat Jan 08, 2011 10:18 am

Some fine wines for epiphany.

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Alsace Riesling Clos Sainte-Hune 1992 – F.E. Trimbach – Alc.12.5%
AFAIK, 1992 is considered no more than a middling vintage in Alsace. I recall previous bottles as on the soft side but this one had developed superbly. The nose was bright yet subtle with white fruit, some spice, petrol infused minerals and just a dab of honey in perfect harmony. The palate was medium/light weight, linear and brightly focussed, dry yet with an elusive hint of honeyed sweetness, aromas perfectly integrated, still lively acidity and enough tension towards the finish for balance. In a different league from my Xmas and New Year Rieslings from Weinbach and Bürklin-wolf; 18/20.

Vacqueyras Les Genestes 2001 – Domaine des Amouriers (Jocelyn Chudzikiewicz) – Alc.14% - (c.€13 for current vintages), Grenache dominated.

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It was singing in that full throated way which one looks for from Vacqueyras with full body, attractive cherry and dark fruit with a savoury touch, lively acidity and some leather encased in firm ripe tannins. Much more enjoyable than my New Year’s bottle of Beaucastel 1998; 16.5/20 QPR.

Vieux Rivesaltes 1974 – Marcel Vila – Alc. 16% - (€25), a fortified wine (VDN) from Grenache, aged in the wood and bottled to order (photo above), was quite deep and red in colour for a wood aged VDN and, on the palate, remarkably youthful and fruity yet caressing, gently sweet and subtle with enough grip on the finish to go down perfectly after a chocolate filled “galette des rois”. Not quite as good as the ethereal 1959 but more subtle than the robust 1989, it was a bit let down by its nose which by the second day showed a touch of steel and a hint like washing up cloth (but the glasses were impeccable clean); 17/20 on the first day.
Tim York

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