I was very fortunate to be invited by Jojo to an extensive tasting of top Vouvray producer Domaine Huet at Masseto. Jojo had us sit at the bar while he had a grand time playing bartender and host. The wines are being imported by his Premium Wine Exchange.
Le Haut Lieu Sec 2009 - Sweet nose with a touch of smoky flint. Good weight, just ripe pineapple. Razor sharp acidity.
Clos de Bourg Sec 2009 - Less expressive nose. More gentle, less sharp than Haut Lieu but with the same flavor profile. A little less fruity, more stony. I liked this best among the Secs.
Le Mont Sec 2006 - Overripeness on the nose. Deep flavor, closer to Clos de Bourg than Haut Lieu.
Le Haut Lieu Demi Sec 2008 - Some thought this was corked. I didn't think it was corked but there was a hint of organic stinkiness on the nose. As in the sec, piercing acidity, but this time properly balanced by the sweetness. Yellow tropical fruits and some bitter marmalade on the finish. Very fresh and nice.
Le Mont Demi Sec 2008 - Just like with the Sec, more gentle than Haut Lieu. Spicy finish.
Le Haut Lieu Demi Sec 2007 - A subdued version of the 2008, with more bitterness on the finish. Also not as sweet.
Le Mont Demi Sec 2007 - Peachy, good balance.
Le Mont Moelleux 2009 - Marmalade, round, no edges.
Le Haut Lieu Moelleux 2009 - Candied fruits. Again, sharp acidity.
Clos de Bourg 1er Trie 2009 - Floral, burnt sugar
Le Mont 1er Trie 2009 - Intense, fruity nose. Rich, full, honeyed, marmalade. Very impressive.
Clos de Bourg 1er Trie 2003 - Very sweet but good balance. Actually, pretty easy to drink.
As you can see from the notes, it was starting to get tough to discern nuances after the 6th wine. All the wines are very good to drink but aside from the Sec wines, I think the wines are very primary and would surely open up and show more complexity with some age. And these wines do have a reputation for aging very well. It also struck me how the sharp acidity was present in all the Haut Lieu wines. If you are looking to add some Chenin Blanc to your cellar, these wines are the way to go.
The tasting ended just as rush hour was starting and so I decided to stay and have dinner with Noel and Richard. Still playing bartender, Jojo generously opened two of his bottles:
Chateau Clerc Milon 1990 - Sweaty, leathery nose. Complex and very dry. Not a profound wine but very good to drink. Best to drink up, though.
Chateau de Beaucastel 1995 - Initially, quite ripe on the nose. I was surprised I didn't immediately get Beaucastel's signature barnyard aroma. Some swirling eventually revealed it underneath the fruit. Soft tannins, rich and full. At peak now.
Many thanks to Jojo for the invitation and all the wines.