by Salil » Wed Jan 05, 2011 11:25 am
2002 Château Lascombes
First impressions are "Hey, it doesn't suck!" Much more civilized and balanced than the nasty '04 I had some time back - the oak is certainly quite noticeable here, but there's nice rich dark fruit with some gentle spice and florality emerging with air. Certainly not what I would expect from a Margaux, more like a ripe new world Cabernet but overall it's drinkable and much better than I expected/feared.
2002 Penfolds Grange
Inscrutable now. I had this a couple of years ago and with some decanting it was a bit more accessible - here the fruit's quite reticent, hidden behind a wall of tannin. There's a sense of great balance though, just that the whole package is very tightly wound and holding back most of what it has to offer. Needs time - lots of it.
1998 Müller-Catoir Haardter Bürgergarten Riesling Spätlese
Carried halfway around the world to Singapore - only to find it's plagued by a hideously bad cork that crumbles into bits at the sight of a corkscrew. Oxidative and really advanced in colour (almost amber) and flavours, certainly not a representative bottle. A real shame.
2001 Dönnhoff Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Riesling Auslese
Stunning Riesling. A spectrum of ripe citrus, apple and white fruited flavours merging seamlessly with herbal, honeyed and minerally notes and some developing creaminess. There's amazing complexity and depth here with the acidity keeping it very light and refreshing, but what really stands out is how everything combines into a seamless whole with a sense of real polish, flawless balance and a finish that persists long after the bottle is emptied. Amazing. (AP #17)
1991 JL Chave Hermitage Blanc
Lost for words to describe this adequately (if the Dönnhoff was amazing, what is this?!) Unbelievable complexity; all sorts of rich white fruited flavours, musky florality, spice, nuts and developed honeyed, oily and lightly toasty notes combined into one seamless package. The mouthfeel is amazing; rich and creamy with palate-staining intensity, yet it seems to just float over the tongue. Incredible presence, finesse and persistence - this is in an amazing place right now, and a truly incredible experience.