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WTN: Recent German Rieslings

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Andrew Bair

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WTN: Recent German Rieslings

by Andrew Bair » Tue Jan 04, 2011 8:47 pm

2009 Reuscher-Haart Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling Kabinett
Medium-bodied, on the sweeter side for a Kabinett, reflecting the 2009 vintage; balanced, with moderate acidity. Shows citrus, apple, and mineral notes. Good+.

2009 Selbach-Oster Graacher Domprobst Riesling Spätlese
This is my first time trying a Selbach-Oster wine from outside of Zeltingen (the J&H Selbach negociant bottlings notwithstanding). Lightly yeasty pear nose. Full, round yet compact, creamy, and nicely balanced, with Auslese-level sweetness. Lightly slaty, with flavors of pears, custard, and peach syrup. Finishes with a grapefruit/mineral note. Shows more of a mineral edge with a couple hours’ airtime. Very good+.

2007 von Hövel Oberemmeler Hütte Riesling Kabinett

Some 2007s may be closed up right now; not this one, though. Nose of white flowers, peaches, and minerals. A relatively light-bodied Kabinett, classically styled, crisp, and full of finesse. Lightly sweet, very mineral, with apple, pear, citrus, and apricot flavors, with just a bit of honey and spice. Finishes flinty and rather dry. Really liked the acidity and the focus here. An excellent Kabinett.

2005 Kerpen Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett #10
From 375 ml bottle. Some petrol on the nose. Full, lightly sweet, nicely balanced and focused, refreshingly mineral, with notes of vanilla, honey, citrus and tropical fruits, and evergreens. Light baking spice notes on the finish. Very good+; one of the best that I have had so far from Kerpen. Imported by Boston Wine Company, not Terry Theise.

2003 Müller-Catoir Haardter Herrenletten Riesling Spätlese Trocken

Nicely perfumed nose of fresh flowers, herbs, and baking spices. Full, dry, with good underlying acidity, and Mosel-like finesse and compactness. Has a nice, cool minerality, with saline, basil, chickpea, and mint notes. Unfortunately, it seems to fall apart somewhat on the midpalate, becoming juicier and less distinguished, with a note of vegetable broth taking over and dominating through the finish. A good wine, yes, but certainly not the best from Müller-Catoir. Again, this was imported by Boston Wine Company, not Terry Theise.

1999 Johann Haart Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling Kabinett #14
A recent closeout purchase; I have no previous experience with Johann Haart’s wines.
Nose of petrol, musk, and baking spices. A delicate, mature Kabinett; juicy and well balanced, with lightly honeyed mineral, apple, and peach notes. Some apple peel on the finish. Very good – a pleasant surprise.

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