What's the best cork screw for old Port?

I had a several old ports over the holidays and a few of the corks completely disintegrated using my double hinged waiter's friend. Is there a better tool for old port?

[Robin Garr]

Tom, let's see what the serious Port gurus have to say, but I think a good-quality double-hinged waiter's friend is the tool of choice for old Port. Seriously, this may be why the system of Port tongs was invented, back in the old days, based on the assumption that an ancient cork probably won't be removable.

Absent hot tongs, I think probably the waiter's friend - with a Melita coffee filter standing by to separate wine from a major cork-fragment spill in case of disaster - is probably the way to go.

[David M. Bueker]

I generally try the Ah-So. Most of the time that works best if you are not into Port tongs and the like.

I've had some success with a technique I try using a portable/multi-piece Screwpull, but it takes some explaining.

I generally try the Ah-So. Most of the time that works best if you are not into Port tongs and the like.

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+1 I use that for any older more brittle corks.

Thanks. I figured an Ah So might be worth a try. I don't currently own one. I guess I'll pick one up sometime.

We had a few nice one's that we had to deal with annoying cork particles because the cork completely fell apart ('75 Taylor, '70 Dow).

The absolute BEST contraption that works 100% of the time, is something that is now about two years old and is called, THE DURAND. It is a combination Ah-So and Cork Screw in one and will work on ancient Port, Burg, Bdx., Madeira, Barolo, Rioja etc. It is a great device, with the only downside being the price. Check out this quick video to see it in action:

www.thedurand.com

That is expensive, but very cool. One of the best cork removers I ever knew used to often use combination of Ah So and helix corkscrew, though in opposite order. Maybe next birthday or Christmas I can mention to my wife.

Tom, one suggestion re Ah So. If you get it, try to use it for a lot of bottles for a while. Using it on younger bottles helps give you practice for when you really need it.

Only last week I ended up completely mangling the cork on a bottle of 1985 Graham's Port. The cork was stuck to the bottleneck. I tried a screwpull first but all it did was to bore a hole in the center of the cork.

I've never gotten the hang of using an Ah-So. I always just end up pushing the cork into the bottle.

I do own port tongs, but I've noticed that recently the major Port producers are no longer using bottles with bulges in the necks to facilitate using the tongs.

-Paul W.

Only last week I ended up completely mangling the cork on a bottle of 1985 Graham's Port. The cork was stuck to the bottleneck. I tried a screwpull first but all it did was to bore a hole in the center of the cork.

I've never gotten the hang of using an Ah-So. I always just end up pushing the cork into the bottle.

I do own port tongs, but I've noticed that recently the major Port producers are no longer using bottles with bulges in the necks to facilitate using the tongs.

-Paul W.

I feel your pain Paul; my experience exactly!!!

Thanks again, guys!!

Paul W, I did the same thing - I drilled a hole straight through the cork. The frustrating thing was that I did it 3 times in 6-7 bottles of port and all the ports that I messed up were really delicious. I need to practice for my stash of '63s (my birth year).

Sounds like the Durand might be the way to go.

Thanks!

Fortunately vintage Port needs decanting, anyway, so it doesn't matter much if you mangle the cork.

Tom--how lucky to be born in such a great year for vintage Port as 1963. I had the fortune to be born in a good vintage year as well (1955).

-Paul W.

Paul,

I'm not sure I agree with your first sentence. If you screw up really bad you can still get cork particles in the decanter. Do you use a filter? I'm not a big fan of coffee filters with wine.

Tom

I decant through a funnel with a sieve that has a fine enough grain to catch cork particles. If it's really bad I'll decant through a few layers of cheesecloth.

-Paul W.

This came up for me in a cork battle this past weekend with a 77 Warre's.
I used an Ah So because of the crumbly cork, but they are often small and want to fall into the bottle. When I felt it start to slide in, I used a long worm from a screwpull (just the worm) inserted into the cork between the Ah So prongs to stabilize it, and then worked the Ah So down deeper, or the worm, etc until I could use them both to finally pull the cork out. I'd never heard of the Durand but the principle seems the same.
And then there's always the strainer if needed. Or the cork retriever. Or both.

[Robin Garr]

Do you use a filter? I'm not a big fan of coffee filters with wine.

I wouldn't use one unless it was an emergency, but just out of curiosity, Tom, why the disdain? Coffee filters are made specifically to be neutral in aroma and flavor so as not to alter the taste of the coffee. Coffee may not be as pricey as Port, but still, avoiding the introduction of off flavors is still the name of the game. Or is it the other way around, a fear that the filter might strip flavor elements out of the wine? I wouldn't have thought paper filters would be effective at the micro-colloidal level, but what do I know?

Bottom line, to me, if the extraction effort fails and cork gets in the wine, I'd rather strain it with a filter than strain cork with my teeth.

I have used coffee filters in the past but one of the servers at the Grill says I should consider tights. Out of them right now!

Robin,

I have no scientific explanantion but I've always disliked using coffee filters.

I do agree that in an emergency its OK so maybe my point was too strong.

I think it goes without saying that Robin is talking about unbleached coffee filters. The white ones do impart a disorienting flavor. We keep a box of the two cup size that fits perfectly into a strainer over our decanter. Only use them once or twice a year.

Carl,

Good point. My wife buys the white one's (I don't drink much coffee so coffee is my wife's area of responsibility) and its the white one's that I dislike for wine.

[Robin Garr]

I think it goes without saying that Robin is talking about unbleached coffee filters.

Yeah, my bad. I thought it went without saying, but it's definitely best to spell it out. (It makes no sense to me, by the way, why the industry would even make a version that DOES impart a flavor, which seems to fight against the whole purpose of the things. For coffee, I mean, not to mention wine. Is it that hard to keep them neutral, or do they assume people who use Melita filters will drink crap coffee and don't care? )

It's my understanding that the reason not to use a coffee filter to strain wine is that the paper imparts tannins. Better to use cheesecloth.

It's my understanding that bleaching the coffee filters just makes them white; it does not improve the product in any other way.

I use a Melitta cone and filters. What exactly is the nature of your criticism?

[Robin Garr]

I use a Melitta cone and filters. What exactly is the nature of your criticism?

No backquote. You're not asking me, are you, Jeff? I probably didn't express myself clearly, but I was trying to say that I can't understand why a company that specializes in coffee filters would make one that changes the flavor of the coffee. Nevertheless, being a recovering hippie, "natural" or "unbleached" and words like that will always turn my frothy little head.

No backquote. You're not asking me, are you, Jeff?

Well, actually, I was. It was you who asked about whether someone else thinks that people who use...

Oh, the heck with it.

I use a decanting funnel with metal screen if cork ends up in bottle. Fine enough to get cork (though not fine sediment, but I can decant as normal, so that shouldn't be an issue).

I often use an unbleached coffee filter to try the last 1-2 ounces left after decanting, though not usually to serve to guests (I've also used cheesecloth, but a cone shaped filter is simpler). I've never noticed flavor or tannin being imparted, but I freely admit I'm not as physically acute a taster as some.