WTN: 1995 Huet Cuvee Constance

Interesting bottle to say the least. I read the reviews on CT before opening but none had been written in the last two years. Earlier notes that had identified the viscosity of this wine did not prepare me for when I poured it out.

The previous tasters were right, this thing pours out like engine oil. Deep golden and viscous, l was surprised at this when I poured it. The nose came out of the glass, seemingly being reserve on purposes, perhaps I had expected more from the sight of the wine alone.

Very Chenin in nature, deep brooding wine, suggesting tonnes of reserved power, I left it in the glass for 1 hour to air out a bit, which worked well. On the nose, orange marmalade, apricot, honey, crysanthanum, slight gritty minerals. On the palate, thick and super smooth, tasting much the same as the nose, in that order with the addition on the finish of good Pu Erh Tea. Then and only then does one recognize the structure and acidity that had been along for the ride all through that sip. Long finish and impressive. Perhaps not the best sweet Vouvrary but still impressive in its scale and seemingly not yet hitting its stride.

Michael,

Thanks for your notes.

Some people feel that the great Chenin Blancs from the Loire Valley are equal to, if not superior to, the great Sauternes, and this wine has several times been held up as the ultimate example.

I've not had this it before, but your notes lead me to believe that, while it is very good, it is hardly phenomenal.
Perhaps it's the vintage, perhaps it needs more time, or perhaps it's not all that it's cracked up to be...

Best regards,
Alex R.

Some people feel that the great Chenin Blancs from the Loire Valley are equal to, if not superior to, the great Sauternes, and this wine has several times been held up as the ultimate example.

I've not had this it before, but your notes lead me to believe that, while it is very good, it is hardly phenomenal.
Perhaps it's the vintage, perhaps it needs more time, or perhaps it's not all that it's cracked up to be...

Alex,

I think you got it right when characterizing my notes. I felt that this was a very very good glass of wine, on par with many sauternes that I've had, in fact better than most Sauternes I've had, but it did not exceed my favourite Sauternes of all time (those being the 89 and 01 Yquem). I think that the Huet shows promise and I would be happy to revisit the rest of my case over the next couple of decades. Then again how would most/any Sauternes stand up against an Essenzia??

Thanks for notes. I've got a couple of 500 mls of these, not planning on opening for a long while. I tend to like Chenin with at least 18-20 years, this sounds grumpy.

Alex, I don't think any Loire fan would hold up '95 as a "great" vintage for sweet Vouvray. But I can't think of a single person I know who's had the '89 Constance who doesn't think it was one of the greatest dessert wines (or wines period) that they've had - and most have had hundreds of Sauternes (including plenty of Yquem). Same thing with Foreau Reserve. Personally I don't claim sweet Chenin is "superior" to Sauternes, I just disagreed with your statements that no sweet wine in the world was as good as sweet Bordeaux.

Dale,

And I can't think of any wine professional in France who would place a Loire wine above an Yquem or a Climens.

Interesting that the opinions should be so radically different!

I would like to get my hands on the particular vintage you refer to, or taste the sorts of wines you're talking about.
If I came to New York in the next year or two, would it be possible to taste them?

Best regards,
Alex R.

[Jenise]

Michael, I've opened four or five bottles of this for friends, and several of the notes you read on Cellar Tracker would be about those. Though all have been impressive, there has been some bottle variation. And in the fact the most atypical bottle may have been the most impressive, and indeed entirely phenomenal: not deep gold but vividly orange and more viscuous with all the flavors you describe but in almost incredible concentrations. Definitely every bit the equal of the best Yquem I ever had, a fine '75 from 750 ml about three years ago.

The '89 Constance is getting a bit pricey for me, over $200 pretty much everywhere.
But maybe we can find someone who bought when it was sub-$200 willing to bring one.
But I'd be willing to sacrifice an '89 Foreau Reserve! Not a Broadbent 6 star like the Huet,but impressive wine to me at least.
Again, I'm not placing top Loires "above" Yquem or Climens, but for me on par (and more affordable than TBAs).

Michael, I've opened four or five bottles of this for friends, and several of the notes you read on Cellar Tracker would be about those. Though all have been impressive, there has been some bottle variation. And in the fact the most atypical bottle may have been the most impressive, and indeed entirely phenomenal: not deep gold but vividly orange and more viscuous with all the flavors you describe but in almost incredible concentrations. Definitely every bit the equal of the best Yquem I ever had, a fine '75 from 750 ml about three years ago.

I heard about them 75 Yquems ....... Must find one one day..... ..