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WTNs: remiss (mucho botellas)

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Mark S

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WTNs: remiss (mucho botellas)

by Mark S » Thu Dec 30, 2010 1:20 am

End of year cleanup and post of notes from various points the past several months. A good time to get thee out there and see what people think.

Knebel, Winninger Röttgen, riesling-S, 'alte reben', 2006
Tropical fruits in syrup, especially pineapple, guava, and kumquat. Quite rich, drinking more like auslese-weight than spatlese. Acidity, like many '06's, feels lacking: there's enough there for balance (Germany, after all), but I'm glad I'm drinking this now. More like desert wine. Rich. 9.5% A-

Lucie et Auguste Lignier, Chambolle-Musigny,'les Bussieres', 2004
Iron and black cherry, lavender char on the nose. Palate is meaty and masculine, with iron, pork broth, black cherry. pretty smooth right now and no sign of the green meanies! 13.% A-

François Pinon, Vouvray, 'Silex Noir', 2007
Buttered green pea nose, softish apple pomice, slight wool,gentille. Crushed beach shells on the finish. Good and decent (for the price, esp.: mid-teens), but not especially memorable. B+

Sottimano, Barbaresco, 'Curra', 1999
Color is a deeper cherry red than nebbiolo deserves to be. Aromatically closed upon opening, but shows mint-menthol upon breathing along with plummy licorice and wood scents. Ouch! Astringent wood tannins are the most apparent ingredient in the mix here, although tart sour cherry and floral impressions are hiding behind it, cowering in front of the baton. Good material here is wasted under the new oak. A shame. B-

Clot de l'Oum, Côtes du Roussillon Villages,'La Compagnie des Papillons' 2005
A reticent, austere (for southern France) nose of animal fur, camphor, bentonite, and dark fruits. Despite the power here, this is a sappy little number, not weighty at all but maintaining gravitas through dark fruit compote, minerals, and a dusty finish of root dust. Very young, and really needs 4-5 more years for my tastes. Nice touch of gamy venison on the finish. 13% A-
[blend of carignan 45%, grenache 45%, syrah 10%]

Desvignes, Morgon, 2005
With the big rush for 2009 Beaujolais, let's not forget there were vintages <i>before</i> that illustrious year. This has the typical iodine and salt plum aromas, with salty light plum and barely ripe cherry flavors on the palate, giving a sweet-sour dimension. Still youthful. White pepper. Good. A solid defense player. A-

Brun, (Terres Dorees), Beaujolais, blanc, 2009
I use Beaujolais blanc to gain a suggestion of what the coming white Burgundy vintage might show, and from this soft example, I won't be purchasing any. Decent as usual, with the requisite chalk, light pear, and hard to complain for the going price (low-mid teens), but for current consumption only. B+

Poliziano, Vino Nobile di Montalcino, 'Asinone', 2000
This wine has gone absolutely nowhere since the last time I checked in. Still has a tannic shell which needs to be resolved. Primary (still), but promising. Thick aromas of cooked fruit-preserves, mint, light cedar, dense mulberry and plum. Bright acidity keeps this from being monolithic, ripe but not outlandishly so. Those avoiding an oak diet ought to stay away, as it does show modern tendencies. Hoping this resolves eventually. A-

Chateau de Fieuzal, Pessac-Leognan, 2000
Youthful purplish red color. Cedary blackcurrant nose, slightly austere fruit and wood touch on the palate. Some depth comes in towards the end. For the price, $24, not bad. B+

Bera, Barbera d'Asti, 'Ronco Malo', 2007
Showing funky, like a James Brown service. Camphorish brambleberry-anise-plum aromas that echo on the palate, sweet figs and volatile acidity, standing on the precipice (perhaps that's the meaning of the "bad" ronco?). Drink now. B+

Domaine Sylvain Pataille, Marsannay, 'Clos du Roi', 2007
Gently perfumed red fruit and spice, slight chalk and a tad sweetish. Delish the first night (A-), but rapidly changed the 2nd night to merit a B+/B. Love to see future vintages, as this guy has talent.

Coudert, Fleurie, 2009
Yeah, the bandwagon, except I don't think it's shut down yet. Floral iodine, lighter than a European bottling I had earlier. Typical iron-blood and chalk-talc finish. Lovely stuff. A-

Domaine du Mas Blanc, Collioure, 'les Junquets', 2004
Feral stink, with saline eye drops and brooding dark fruit, as is typical. Plum salt lick, iodine and sharpish acidity. Not sure if age is calming the sauvage beast or not. Note that these are NOT the wines you spring on people just 'learning the ropes'! For the person who has been around awhile and likes uniqueness, they can be interesting. B+

Domaine du Grand Tinel, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, 2007 (blanc)
Light pale gold. Savory nose of herbs and buttered pistachios. Not overblown at all with an juniper berry kick on the finish. Restrained and almost austere. Even at 14%, I like. Enjoyable. A-/B+

Vitanza, Brunello di Montalcino, 'Tradizione', 2005
Nice floral aromatics with a leaner and somewhat more astringent and acidic body than the straight-up BdM from this producer, being lighter in weight and without trace of wood. Full of sour cherry and under-ripe plums. 14% B+
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David M. Bueker

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Re: WTNs: remiss (mucho botellas)

by David M. Bueker » Thu Dec 30, 2010 10:52 am

That's the first note I have seen on the "other" side of the Lignier estate. Glad there were no greenies. Do you know who actually made the 2004s?
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Re: WTNs: remiss (mucho botellas)

by Dale Williams » Thu Dec 30, 2010 11:48 am

Pretty sure that Hubert made wines from both estates in 2004.
I have to say that the whole saga drains some of the enjoyment out of any Lignier (H. or A & L) wine for me.
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Re: WTNs: remiss (mucho botellas)

by David M. Bueker » Thu Dec 30, 2010 12:00 pm

Dale Williams wrote:Pretty sure that Hubert made wines from both estates in 2004.
I have to say that the whole saga drains some of the enjoyment out of any Lignier (H. or A & L) wine for me.


The prices drain all the enjoyment out of the Hubert Lignier wines for me.
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Re: WTNs: remiss (mucho botellas)

by James Roscoe » Thu Dec 30, 2010 12:04 pm

David M. Bueker wrote:
Dale Williams wrote:Pretty sure that Hubert made wines from both estates in 2004.
I have to say that the whole saga drains some of the enjoyment out of any Lignier (H. or A & L) wine for me.


The prices drain all the enjoyment out of the Hubert Lignier wines for me.

This is true of too many wines David! :( Shouldn't we just drink and enjoy? Money may not be the root of all evil, but it sure sucks the joy out of a lot of life's pleasures.

Great notes Mark! I hope you and the family had a peaceful Christmas and have a great New Year! :D
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Re: WTNs: remiss (mucho botellas)

by Joe Moryl » Thu Dec 30, 2010 6:27 pm

So just what was the saga involving the Ligniers? One of those French inheritance splits?

Hey Mark, nice notes. Poliziano is from Montepulciano, no? I had a short stay in that lovely town before new oak was popular!
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Re: WTNs: remiss (mucho botellas)

by Andrew Bair » Fri Dec 31, 2010 5:53 pm

Hi Mark -

Hope that you and your family are doing well. Anyway, thank you for the great notes - this is a really interesting group of wines. Can't say that I have had any of these precise ones, though.

Too bad that Knebel is not distributed here in Massachusetts. I'm still hoping for one of our local distributors to pick of the Mosel Wine Merchant portfolio sometime.
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Re: WTNs: remiss (mucho botellas)

by Dale Williams » Sat Jan 01, 2011 5:25 pm

Joe Moryl wrote:So just what was the saga involving the Ligniers? One of those French inheritance splits?


A bit sadder than most. Hubert had turned over much of the winemaking over quite a few years to his son Romain (and had deeded some vineyards). Romain died in 2004 of cancer. His American widow Kellen renamed Romain's holdings Lucie and Auguste after the 2 kids, as they inherited. She decided to train further in winemaking, and went through training (at DRC and elsewhere). Hubert led her through couple vintages. I believe the wines were split between the Hubert and L& A labels. Then some family stuff, and Hubert went back to making his wine separately (and kept vineyards he hadn't deeded yet). I believe now lots of bitterness. Hopefully someone can correct anything I got wrong.

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