by Mark S » Thu Dec 30, 2010 1:20 am
End of year cleanup and post of notes from various points the past several months. A good time to get thee out there and see what people think.
Knebel, Winninger Röttgen, riesling-S, 'alte reben', 2006
Tropical fruits in syrup, especially pineapple, guava, and kumquat. Quite rich, drinking more like auslese-weight than spatlese. Acidity, like many '06's, feels lacking: there's enough there for balance (Germany, after all), but I'm glad I'm drinking this now. More like desert wine. Rich. 9.5% A-
Lucie et Auguste Lignier, Chambolle-Musigny,'les Bussieres', 2004
Iron and black cherry, lavender char on the nose. Palate is meaty and masculine, with iron, pork broth, black cherry. pretty smooth right now and no sign of the green meanies! 13.% A-
François Pinon, Vouvray, 'Silex Noir', 2007
Buttered green pea nose, softish apple pomice, slight wool,gentille. Crushed beach shells on the finish. Good and decent (for the price, esp.: mid-teens), but not especially memorable. B+
Sottimano, Barbaresco, 'Curra', 1999
Color is a deeper cherry red than nebbiolo deserves to be. Aromatically closed upon opening, but shows mint-menthol upon breathing along with plummy licorice and wood scents. Ouch! Astringent wood tannins are the most apparent ingredient in the mix here, although tart sour cherry and floral impressions are hiding behind it, cowering in front of the baton. Good material here is wasted under the new oak. A shame. B-
Clot de l'Oum, Côtes du Roussillon Villages,'La Compagnie des Papillons' 2005
A reticent, austere (for southern France) nose of animal fur, camphor, bentonite, and dark fruits. Despite the power here, this is a sappy little number, not weighty at all but maintaining gravitas through dark fruit compote, minerals, and a dusty finish of root dust. Very young, and really needs 4-5 more years for my tastes. Nice touch of gamy venison on the finish. 13% A-
[blend of carignan 45%, grenache 45%, syrah 10%]
Desvignes, Morgon, 2005
With the big rush for 2009 Beaujolais, let's not forget there were vintages <i>before</i> that illustrious year. This has the typical iodine and salt plum aromas, with salty light plum and barely ripe cherry flavors on the palate, giving a sweet-sour dimension. Still youthful. White pepper. Good. A solid defense player. A-
Brun, (Terres Dorees), Beaujolais, blanc, 2009
I use Beaujolais blanc to gain a suggestion of what the coming white Burgundy vintage might show, and from this soft example, I won't be purchasing any. Decent as usual, with the requisite chalk, light pear, and hard to complain for the going price (low-mid teens), but for current consumption only. B+
Poliziano, Vino Nobile di Montalcino, 'Asinone', 2000
This wine has gone absolutely nowhere since the last time I checked in. Still has a tannic shell which needs to be resolved. Primary (still), but promising. Thick aromas of cooked fruit-preserves, mint, light cedar, dense mulberry and plum. Bright acidity keeps this from being monolithic, ripe but not outlandishly so. Those avoiding an oak diet ought to stay away, as it does show modern tendencies. Hoping this resolves eventually. A-
Chateau de Fieuzal, Pessac-Leognan, 2000
Youthful purplish red color. Cedary blackcurrant nose, slightly austere fruit and wood touch on the palate. Some depth comes in towards the end. For the price, $24, not bad. B+
Bera, Barbera d'Asti, 'Ronco Malo', 2007
Showing funky, like a James Brown service. Camphorish brambleberry-anise-plum aromas that echo on the palate, sweet figs and volatile acidity, standing on the precipice (perhaps that's the meaning of the "bad" ronco?). Drink now. B+
Domaine Sylvain Pataille, Marsannay, 'Clos du Roi', 2007
Gently perfumed red fruit and spice, slight chalk and a tad sweetish. Delish the first night (A-), but rapidly changed the 2nd night to merit a B+/B. Love to see future vintages, as this guy has talent.
Coudert, Fleurie, 2009
Yeah, the bandwagon, except I don't think it's shut down yet. Floral iodine, lighter than a European bottling I had earlier. Typical iron-blood and chalk-talc finish. Lovely stuff. A-
Domaine du Mas Blanc, Collioure, 'les Junquets', 2004
Feral stink, with saline eye drops and brooding dark fruit, as is typical. Plum salt lick, iodine and sharpish acidity. Not sure if age is calming the sauvage beast or not. Note that these are NOT the wines you spring on people just 'learning the ropes'! For the person who has been around awhile and likes uniqueness, they can be interesting. B+
Domaine du Grand Tinel, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, 2007 (blanc)
Light pale gold. Savory nose of herbs and buttered pistachios. Not overblown at all with an juniper berry kick on the finish. Restrained and almost austere. Even at 14%, I like. Enjoyable. A-/B+
Vitanza, Brunello di Montalcino, 'Tradizione', 2005
Nice floral aromatics with a leaner and somewhat more astringent and acidic body than the straight-up BdM from this producer, being lighter in weight and without trace of wood. Full of sour cherry and under-ripe plums. 14% B+