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WTN: Festive wines

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Salil

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WTN: Festive wines

by Salil » Wed Dec 29, 2010 9:55 am

Some fun wines over the last few days with family & friends, in between plenty of great food (note to David: no shortage of biryani) and warm tropical weather.

2008 Dr. F. Weins-Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett
Classic Kabinett, conveying flavour with barely any sense of weight and a real lightness of touch. The flavours here are mostly in the green spectrum; green apple and pear fruit tinged with aloe, herbal notes and touches of slate with really refreshing, bracing acidity underneath and good length.

2009 Weingut Josef Leitz Rüdesheimer Klosterlay Riesling Kabinett [b]
Another year, another lovely Leitz Kabinett. Fresh green apple and lime fruit with a rocky mineral character underneath and some herbal accents that emerge with some air. Light on its feet with bright acids, restrained sweetness and all too easy to drink.

[b] 2009 Müller-Catoir Mußbach Riesling Kabinett

Comes across more like a Spätlese in its ripeness and sweetness, but this is really delicious stuff, full of floral-tinged grapefruit, melon and peachy fruit with a base of mineral salts and stone underneath. Beautifully balanced with bright acids and a real sense of refreshment, finishing long and all too easy to drink.

2006 Weingut Spreitzer Oestricher Lenchen Riesling Erstes Gewächs
Starts out a little austere; stony and a bit rough on the back end, but with some air it quickly rounds out, gaining in weight and depth and becoming much more enjoyable. Quite complex, combining rich pear and peachy fruit with roasted almonds, touches of honey and an intense stony minerality, finishing long and faintly creamy. Very nice.

N.V. Tarlant Champagne La Vigne d'Antan Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut
Not much to add to my previous praise for this wine. Rich white fruited flavours, fresh baked bread with marmalade and toasty accents conveyed with a sense of restrained power, finesse and real seamlessness. As always, there's that expansive, almost pillowy texture I've found in a lot of franc de pied wines, which is what got me hooked on this wine - fantastic Champagne, and I'm glad I have more.

2006 Clonakilla Shiraz Hilltops
Pretty aromatics, full of ripe brambly red fruits and berries accented with dark chocolate and exotic floral elements. Very polished and glossy in the mouth with gentle tannins barely noticeable beneath the rich fruit and bright acids giving it lift. It's nicely balanced with a sense of restraint and finesse, though it's very primary right now and I'd like to see what happens to this with some age.

2006 Schäfer-Fröhlich Bockenauer Felseneck Riesling Spätlese
Exotic scents of lilac, talc and cherries lead into a palate that's packed with red fruits, nectarines and limes with a vivid stony minerality beneath. There's tremendous power, richness and sweetness here, but it's matched by really bright acids that keep it very precise, fresh and perfectly balanced.

2001 Gutsverwaltung Niederhausen Schlossböckelheim Niederhäuser Hermannsberg Riesling Beerenauslese
Incredibly young and primary right now, full of golden raisins, apricots and ripe red berries drenched in honey, ginger and vanilla. It's very rich and slightly viscous in texture with palate-staining intensity, but there's surprisingly refreshing acidity underneath and a citric element on the back end that's a nice counterpoint to the huge sweetness and keeps it very drinkable.
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David M. Bueker

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Re: WTN: Festive wines

by David M. Bueker » Wed Dec 29, 2010 10:22 am

Glad you found something to drink.

Interesting note on the Nahe Beerenauslese, as we have a 2002 auction eiswein from the same (exhaustively named) estate. We'll have to check it out some time.

Laura absolutely loved that Tarlant at the T&V Champagne gala. She ended up getting a bottle for her birthday.

Love those Spreitzer dry wines. Some day I might have to allocate some Donnhoff money to them.
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Bill Hooper

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Re: WTN: Festive wines

by Bill Hooper » Wed Dec 29, 2010 5:39 pm

I'm with you all the way on the Clonakilla Shiraz. I was shocked that I liked it so much. It had very Croze-Hermitage leanings within. Glad to hear that the Spreitzer was good as I have really liked the sweeter wines from them in '06. Though it is one of my very favorite regions, I don't get to drink Rheingauers much unless I go there. You might be amazed at how provincial Germany is in that it is hard to find wines from other bundesländer in Rheinland-Pfalz (the Rheingau being in Hessen and all), though the Mosel, Nahe, Ahr, Mittelrhein and Rheinhessen wines are easier to buy (as is Baden, though it is also not in RP, it is southern).

Cheers,
Bill
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Andrew Bair

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Re: WTN: Festive wines

by Andrew Bair » Fri Dec 31, 2010 6:21 pm

Hi Salil -

Thank you for the great notes. Glad you liked the the GNS BA. I had a really nice 1983 GNS Hermannsberg Eiswein a couple of years ago, but have never had - or seen - anything else from them. Anyway, my understanding had been that their quality had fallen off since the 1980s, so it is good to see a positive note on something more recent from GNS.

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