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WTN: Christmas Eve and Day wines

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Dale Williams

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WTN: Christmas Eve and Day wines

by Dale Williams » Sun Dec 26, 2010 5:54 pm

Christmas Eve we had a subdued Feast of the One Fish. David and Betsy's parents joined us for lemon sole, bok choy, and rice. I was driving a van into city after a late church service, so only had one glass. Wine was the 2007 Domaine and Selection "Les Blanchots" Chablis GC. Lemony, crisp, medium bodied, a nice Chardonnay, enough chalky/flinty notes to be a nice Chablis, maybe lacking in Grand Cru distinction, but since it was priced like a village wine, I'm not upset it doesn't scream Blanchots. B

Only a couple hours sleep, then off to office to set up things for Christmas Eve, then home to prepare for a small crowd - Betsy's parents, Dave's paternal grandparents, some other local friends, and a retired colleague of Betsy's from city. Only one person other than myself really interested in wine, but I took the opportunity to just open whatever I thought was interesting, no trophy wines, things that might or might not be good.

Betsy made some really tasty sardine/anchovy/whitebean toasts, Nancy had brought along some artisanal salume, and we started with 2 bubblies

NV Chidaine Montlouis Brut
Very appley, light bodied, some earth, fully petillant. B

NV Gosset "Excellence" Champagne Brut
Totally different style, very full, apple and creamsicle wirh a bit of yeast, good acdity, nice length. B+

Main course was a huge (24 rib) crown pork roast, with an apple/pecan stuffing (we did a separate casserole for the vegetarian, the one with the meat juices killed it in competition), with a wild mushroom lasagna for those not having meat (and a side for those that were). Plus roasted kale, golden beets and celeriac with goat butter, assorted breads, etc.

1988 Bricco del Drago (Vino de Tavola, Piedmont)
Dave always enjoys birthyear wines, so I decided to give this Dolcetto/Nebbiolo blend a shot. Good cork, good color. Cherry fruit, a little barnyard, still a little hint of tannin. I'd have bet 3:1 this was dead, but it's got plenty of fruit. It's low acid and a little plodding. It's certainly survived (and couple people quite liked), but for me it's a surprisingly youthful version of a wine that I don't especially like. C+/B-

1976 Jadot Gevrey Chambertin
Saturated cork, but came out cleanly with AhSo. Another wine that should be dead, when I opened seemed well on the way, with more forest floor, leather, and ashtray than fruit. But each time I retried I liked better, and by time cheese was out it was showing quite nicely indeed. The forest floor, mushroom, smoke was still there, but the ashtray had faded, and some solid black cherry fruit was providing underpinning. Tangy acids, fairly light, but a satisfying fully mature village wine that by all rights should have been dead. B+

1979 Ch. du Tertre (Margaux)
ok, somehow I thought I had set up a '79 DDC (labels look nothing alike). I got ready to decant and realized mistake, but decided to go with bottle that had been upright for couple days. Showing a bit more advanced than some bottles, but drinking nicely. Cassis and dark berries, resolved tannins, cedar, and leather. Classic mature Margaux. B+

2005 Zilliken Saarburger Rausch Riesling Kabinett
I thought Riesling was a more classic match with pork/apple, but since most folks were red drinkers, this was only one I opened (had an Austrian and CFE ready, but decided not to go trocken as one person always prefers some sugar), Young, plenty sweet, but with really zippy acidity. Electric, white fruits with a little lime and cherry, long finish. Quite nice, B+/A-

Finished with cheeses (Ossau Iraty, a Chalet du Jura), two Linzertortes (who'd have guessed), and a tarte tatin. Food was great, wines were good, but main thing as always was spending time with good folks, both friends and family

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency. 
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David M. Bueker

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Re: WTN: Christmas Eve and Day wines

by David M. Bueker » Sun Dec 26, 2010 9:00 pm

24 ribs?? That is a huge roast.

Great surprise with the Jadot. Nice to hear of the du Tertre performing so well.

Laura and I shared a 2003 Donnhoff Kirschheck Spatlese with Christmas dinner. Not bad - kind of a B wine for now, but slimming down from its youth.
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Re: WTN: Christmas Eve and Day wines

by Dale Williams » Mon Dec 27, 2010 10:54 pm

David M. Bueker wrote:24 ribs?? That is a huge roast.


15 lbs. There was a possibility we might have a couple of more guests (friends stranded by European snow issues) so wanted to make sure.They only had single slab crowns (12) or doubles when I was there. Rather than wait for a custom, went with the big one.

Only 2003 Donnhoff I think I bought was '03 Brucke Auslese, any idea how that's doing?

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