Compared with many other contributors here, I probably drink or taste fewer sparkling wines over the course of the year, I but do enjoy getting the chance to try them when I can. Each December, I try to go to several local in-store tastings of Champagnes and other sparkling wines in what has become a fun little annual exercise for me. These are my notes from the wines that I tried this December; as always, I try to include the cépage whenever I can determine it , and it isn't already obvious from the name or the region of the wine .
One thing that I'll add is that I am not good at deciphering disgorgement dates unless they are downright obvious - perhaps someone here has some tips to help me "crack the code", so to speak, from lots numbers and the like?
Sparkling Wines from Outside Champagne
Interestingly, I did not get to sample any Californian sparklers or Cavas this year, which was surprising.
2009 Bisol Prosecco di Conegliano-Valdobbiadene DOCG Brut Crede
Actually only 85% Prosecco, with 10% Pinot Blanc and 5% Verdiso; Crede is the name of the vineyard.
Toasty/herbal nose. Full-bodied, rich, well balanced, with good underlying acidity and moderate mousse. Shows just a bit of residual sugar, along with fresh apple, pear, and floral notes. Very good; definitely one of the better Proseccos that I have had.
NV Domaine de Montbourgeau Crémant du Jura
100% Chardonnay. Grapey/lightly honeyed/waxy nose. Medium-bodied, crisp, and dry, well balanced; rounder on the midpalate. Less mousse than some. Lightly toasty, with honeyed, spiced apple notes. Good/very good.
2009 Conti di Buscareto Brut Rosé
100% Lacrima Nera from Le Marche; the Lacrima di Morro d’Alba DOC does not permit a sparkling version, so this is a non-DOC wine. Interestingly, I recently read that DNA analysis has determined that Lacrima Nera is the same grape as Gaglioppo – go figure.
Moderately full-bodied, with rather light mousse; dry and well balanced, with moderate acidity. Shows notes of watermelon, red currants, roses, roasted meat, with a very small hint of black pepper. Good/very good.
2005 Domaine Huet Vouvray Pétillant
Light to medium-bodied, dry, well balanced, with good underlying acidity. Shows notes of spiced apples and pears, some toast, minerals, and black pepper. Very good/excellent – as good a sparkler as one can find outside of Champagne.
2006 Argyle Winery Brut Willamette Valley
58% Chardonnay/42% Pinot Noir. Moderately full-bodied, round, well balanced, with good mousse; fresh and fruity, with apple, pear, biscuit, and lightly spicy notes. Good/very good.
At any rate, is anyone besides Argyle making good quality sparkling wine in the Willamette Valley these days? It would seem like the potential is there.
Champagnes
Some of these were new to me; others I have had before. Henri Billiot Fils seems to be one of the best-known producers of grower Champagne in the United States, but this is the first of theirs that I have actually tasted.
NV J. Lasalle Brut 1er Cru Cachet d’Or
Disgorged 7/26/10. 60% Pinot Meunier, 25% Chardonnay, and 15% Pinot Noir. Medium-bodied, dry, well balanced, with good mousse. Slightly meaty, with notes of apple, pear, slate, and honey notes, along with a hint of black pepper. Very good+.
NV Roger Coulon Brut 1er Cru Grande Tradition
50% Pinot Meunier, 25% Pinot Noir, and 25% Chardonnay. Bready, yeasty, honeyed nose. Medium-bodied, well balanced, and dry, with good mousse and underlying acidity. Tastes of pears, apples, vanilla, and tropical fruits, with notes of licorice and black pper on the finish. Excellent.
NV Roger Coulon Brut Rosé
80% Pinot Meunier/20% Pinot Noir. Medium-bodied, smooth, well balanced, with good mousse and acidity. Shows notes of raspberries, plums, biscuits, and spices. Very good/excellent.
NV Cedric Bouchard Brut Blanc de Noirs Inflorescence Val Vilaine
Fruit is from the 2008 vintage – did not catch the disgorgement date, though. Moderately full bodied, not as full as the last time that I had this wine (the 07/08 disgorgement with fruit from 2006). Well balanced, with good underlying acidity, and good finesse. Toasty, with notes of red berries, plums, apples, and various herbs and spices. Excellent.
NV Drappier Brut Nature Pinot Noir Zero Dosage
Medium-bodied, bone dry, round, and well balanced, with good mousse and underlying acidity. Shows mixed berry, plum, dough, yeast, and fruitcake aromas/flavors. Very good/excellent.
2002 Drappier Brut Grande Sendrée
55% Pinot Noir/45% Chardonnay. Full-bodied, round, and dry, with good mousse and acidity; redolent with notes of cookie dough, strawberries, red plums, wildflowers, and gingerbread. Has good finesse, and a particularly smooth texture. Excellent.
NV René Geoffroy Brut 1er Cru “Expression”
Disgorged 07/09. Blend of Pinot Meunier, Pinot Noir, and Chardonnay. Light to medium-bodied, dry, and slightly austere; moderate acidic, with citrus and peachy notes. In all likelihood, this bottle had been open for too long by the time that I tried it, because it didn’t seem very lively. Judgment withheld for now; hope to try again sometime soon.
NV Henri Billiot Fils Brut Réserve
Disgorged 11/09; mostly Pinot Noir, with some Chardonnay. Off-dry, moderately full-bodied, nicely balanced, with good mousse. Fresh, lightly toasty/floral, with notes of mixed berries, plums, and peaches. Very good+.
NV Jacques Lassaigne Brut Blanc de Blancs "Les Vignes de Montgueux"
Light-bodied, dry, and well-balanced, with good mousse and acidity; mineral/earthy, with notes of apples, pears, and peaches. Very good/excellent, though a step below the Rosé de Montgueux that I had a couple of months ago in terms of poise and sheer beauty.
NV Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin Demi-Sec
From 375 ml bottle; composition unknown. Full-bodied, round, and sweet, with good mousse, and mostly apple, malt, and floral notes. A little bit lacking in acidity and definition.
MV Krug Brut Grande Cuvée
From 375 ml bottle. Smoky, spicy nose. Full-bodied, creamy, dry, and well balanced, with good mousse. Shows notes of honey, toast, minerals, spices, and coffee. Excellent.
NV Ruinart Brut Rosé
55% Pinot Noir/45% Chardonnay. Medium-bodied, nicely balanced, round, and dry, with good mousse, and notes of red fruits, spices, and paprika. Very good.
NV Beaumont des Crayères Brut Grand Prestige
40% Chardonnay/40% Pinot Noir%/20% Pinot Meunier. Medium-bodied, crisp yet round, well balanced, and dry, with good mousse; displays notes of honey, apples, minerals, and papayas. Very good.
NV Gosset Brut Grande Réserve
Full, dry, and round, yet quite elegant, and nicely balanced, with good mousse. Toasty/spicy, with apple, honey, floral, and maple notes. Very good/excellent.
NV Heidsieck & Co. Monopole Brut Blue Top
70% Pinot Noir, 20% Chardonnay, and 10% Pinot Meunier. Medium-bodied, with good mousse and acidity; a bit clunky, however, as far as finesse and balance. Toasty/lightly spicy, with apple and red berry notes. Not my favorite.
1999 Pommery Brut Grand Cru Millésimé
50% Chardonnay/50% Pinot Noir. Light to medium-bodied, with good mousse; elegant, focused, well balanced, with good underlying acidity. Shows notes of pears, apples, malt, toast, and stones. Very good/excellent.
1995 Pommery Brut Grand Cru Millésimé
50% Chardonnay/50% Pinot Noir. Light to medium-bodied, elegant, with moderate mousse/acidity, and well balanced. Clearly mature; very honeyed, with nutty, caramel, and nutmeg notes. I would recommend drinking this up now if you have any.