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WTN: The Grand Crew pops a few "Cellar Gems"

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WTN: The Grand Crew pops a few "Cellar Gems"

by Jenise » Sat Dec 18, 2010 6:24 pm

All wines served blind.

1) Citrus, coconut, pears, lemon, diesel, ripe Auslese-level sweetness, obviously riesling, most excellent and elegant. Some discussion involved the acidity: some thought it flabby, where I found it very soft in the entry but plenty tangy and clean on the finish. 2002 Donnhoff Spatlese.

2) Minerals and grass, rich and dry, developed grapefruit, passion fruit and limestone but stayed lean. Wasn't hard to guess Sauvignon Blanc, Dagenau and Silex in that order. The vintage was harder to peg: 2007 Dagenau Silex.

3) This is clearly chardonnay. But from where? It's creamy and both lightly tropical and seemingly cooler climate at the same time, with light oak. Doesn't seem French and in answer to questions we've learned it's not North American. Turns out to be a 2001 Leeuwin Chardonnay Artist Series from Western Australia. Was surprised; this wine's not nearly as ripe and tropical as other Leeuwin's I've had.

4) Caramel and butterscoth, buttermilk and apple cider. Obvious oxidation but not unpleasant, and it would probably pass muster with some who enjoy this character in moderation. Sad--this was my bottle, and another not that long ago was actually quite nice. '98 Verget Puligny-Montrachet "Sous la Puits" .

5) Oh boy, here's our first red. My notes don't do this wine justice: "Aged. Graphite and everything wonderful. Big aromatics. Classic Bordeaux, probably a '90." At which point I quit writing, flabbergasted when it was revealed to be a 2000 Pegau Cuvee Reservee CdP. Everyone else was as badly fooled as I was. Outstanding. One of my WOTN's.

6) Warm milk, violets and then black rubber on the nose. Texture's silky and polished. Cherries, smoke, licorice and leather are on the palate. Outstanding. 89 Jaboulet La Chapelle Hermitage.

7) I throw out my red to sink or swim, interested in how it would show after such huge quality. And to my surprise and pleasure it did quite well. Hugely aromatic and seductive nose of powdered sugar, black cherries, unlit pipe tobacco and violets. Excellent complexity and balance. Guesses are all over the map with regard to provenance and grapes, with Washington state being about dead last on anybody's list of possibilities. But indeed it's from the home team: '92 Delille Chaleur (Bordeaux blend), Delille's first commercial vintage. Excellent.

8) Traditional, young young young, mucho minerality, green tannins. Oh my, Warren has indulged us with a 2001 Haut Brion. Will be a great wine some day, but this is too soon.

9) Brett that blows off, lighter color than previous wines. Funky raspberry fruit with orange juice, tamarind and tea. I guess Rioja but no, it's '95 Musar. Very good.

10) Tomato leaf, orange, berries but overall though nice there's a bit of a hollow spot here where something important should be. Turns out be a 1995 Beaucastel in what I would guess is a bit of lull--should be better someday.

Not served blind since their owner arrived late:

11) '77 Pontet Canet : Even in these so-called bad vintages there's something to love about Pontet Canet. Here, sweet cedar with lots of leather and tobacco notes. Worn but fine like an old silk smoking jacket, and just as comforting.

12) 1997 Geantet-Ponsiot Charmes-Chambertin Big blast of Vitamin B on the nose, with with something sweet and tangy on the palate that comes across as shrimp cocktail sauce. I don't hate it, but at this point in the evening I'm having trouble processing these unwine-like characteristics. So, just okay for me.

13) Well, Lars turned out to have a spare bottle on hand so it got opened too, and it's a fine one: 1995 Chateau Larmande, St. Emilion . Traditional style with an attractive earthiness about the fruit, which is ample but not overdone, and some cigar box notes. I believe this is my first Larmande, but it won't be my last.

14) Our host now serves a 2004 Baumard Quarts de Charme with a panna cotta. Pale yellow color. On the nose light Eureka lemon and green cabbage. Not as ripe as many of these I've tasted, but also lacking the smelly-cheese and rotting vegetables that so many I've had showed, so it's very good for me but I recognize that it lacks the character most others prize about these Baumards.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov

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