Last week's fast-asleep bottle of 2005 Huet Vouvray Le Haut-Lieu Sec left me thirsty for the real wide-awake thing so I opened the first of my six bottles of
2009 HUET LE HAUT-LIEU SEC Sure, it's gonna get lot better in another ten years, or maybe fifteen or twenty, but where will I be in 2030? So down the hatch it goes. It's delicious, in a forgivably disjointed sort of way, and I love every citrusy, honeyed, mineral infused tangy drop of it. This is hundred-buck white Burg caliber juice for twenty-four dollars. Thank you, Loire. It's not as sec as Huet LH-L usually is, which is only to say it doesn't set your teeth on edge, so it went just fine with a pork-and-chayote dish and parsnip gnochi. I'd serve it to the queen -- but she better get here soon as I plan to drink the remaining five bottles in the next year or two, before nap time.

