Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon “Art Series” 1998 – Leeuwin Estate – Alc. 14.5%. I used to like the wines from this estate but this, together with a soggy Cabernet-Merlot 1999 (quite recent TN), are causing me to revise my opinion. First sniff and sip were favourable with a rich bouquet of red and dark fruit and full body with a seemingly velvety texture on the palate. But the wine rapidly palled; there was little else there than rather over-ripe and plush primary fruit other than just a hint of tobacco, there was just marginally firmer structure than with my memory of the Cabernet-Merlot but it was still somewhat soggy, the texture became thick and heavy rather than velvety and an impression of sweetness in the fruit (I guess some 7-8g/l) unrelieved by the smooth acidity started to cloy. We could not finish the bottle; also a lesson on the dangers of favourable quick impressions at sip and spit tastings; 13/20.
Cahors 2008 – Château Croze de Pys – Alc.13% - (c.€4) restored my faith in wine after the pretentious goop from Leeuwin. Body was medium/light but the aromas and fruit were pure and lovely with red/dark fruit copiously laced with anise and a touch of liquorice of the decently structure and long finish. I guess that yields are quite high here and some may complain of a touch of dilution but that did not prevent, and maybe even enhanced, the deliciousness of the flavours and the wine’s moreishness; 15.5/20+ QPR!!!
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