WTN: Profound Beaune

Domaine Henri Naudin-Ferrand Hautes-Côtes de Beaune "Orchis Mascula" 2007 - 12% abv; 32,90€; back label
A lovely light colored, "natural" wine. This is aged in oak, 80% of which is new - this much new oak influence doesn't seem to be usual among "natural" producers, but, just as it did with the 2006, it works here. Unlike with the Wither Hills '08 I recently posted on, the oak isn't bitter and it doesn't seem like a major aromatic component of the whole. Instead, with just half an hour of air, it fades into the background and lets the slightly vegetal but ripe and sexy Pinosity come to the fore. What emerges is a truly ethereal and delicate floral wine. Delightfully light, crisp and acidic without being harsh - but the lightness is deceptive as it is full of layers and persistence. Unending. Awesome. A couple years more for that initial oak to disappear even more and I can well imagine this being in that rare FMTIG-category.

[David M. Bueker]

I would bet that the toast level on the oak for the Wither Hills was higher.

OK, what's FMTIG? The closes match on Babylon is "frig".

[David M. Bueker]

OK, what's FMTIG? The closes match on Babylon is "frig".

**** me that is good.

(At least I think that's what it means.)

And in Finnish?

My dirty mind says:

F%$k Me This Is Good

Very interesting, Otto. This estate was not on my radar screen till now but all three of my French annual reference books mention it and Bettane/Desseauve are very enthusiastic awarding the estate the quite rare *** (max*****). The young Claire Naudin is in charge with training at Montpellier and a "stage" in Australia behind her.

Based on encounters at tastings and one from my cellar, 2007 in Burgundy produced stylish, early drinking wines which tend to be on the lean side and, to boot, the Hautes-Côtes de Beaune do not usually produce the most intense Burgundies. So it is surprising that ageing for 12 months in 80% new wood did not leave marked traces, especially for someone so allergic to its influence as you, Otto. That suggests very sensitive and skilful wine-making with careful choice of barrels as neutral as possible, though it is unlikely that this estate can afford any thing like the six years of weathering of the staves which DRC requires.

Sounds like an estate to watch out for.

Yes, it means "fuck me this is good". And there's nothing vulgar about an occasional outburst of profanity.

Tim, I've been wondering about the oak of Naudin-Ferrand as well. I dislike oaky wines; but their wines do seem to shed their large amount of oak very quickly. I wonder why that is?